The population of Seoul is over 10 million (almost half a million Utopians live here).

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• Tapgol Park
  Utopia Map. Gone with the wind! This once-lovely little public park with garden nooks and crannies that attracted all sorts of happy locals, as well as gay cruisers, has been hideously paved over into a windswept plaza of overblown historical dioramas that you'd expect to see in North Korea, not South. The intricate, carved stone stupa that gave "Pagoda Park" its fairytale nickname, has now been entombed in a grey steel and glass coffin forcing worshippers who come to give offerings to pray as if outside an office building. Why use unobtrusive large pieces of non-glare glass when you can further obscure this national treasure with a checkerboard of small reflective panes held together by a clutter of metal trussing? Shame on the city planners that got it so completely wrong and ruined this pretty little oasis. New nickname: Eyesore Park.

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• Cinemas
  There are at least several gay DVD theaters open in the Chongno 3-Ga area. There is one just up the stairs just to the right of the entrance to the KFC. Look for the black sign in Korean and climb up to 3/F. This one has quite a mix of ages and types. There is another, if you are looking for older men, with the odd young businessman type, just a block north on 'Mary's Alley,' off the narrow street just east of Topkol Park. The former East Gate of the park (usually closed) opens right into the plaza. Now it's occupied by old men with their wares laid out on blankets, food vending stalls and fortune teller booths. The one theater is on the north side of this plaza (look for the black X on the glass door and climb up to 2/F), but the better one is a short walk north on the street, just east of this little plaza - continue north, cross the next street, and continue on just down the little street to the east of the musical instrument market (turn right at the two telephone booths at the foot of the long stairs going up to entrance and then back down). Just where the long stairs come down on the north side, turn right down the small street and walk down a block or so to the DVD sign. Take the steps to B/F. This has a younger crowd and has much better gay flicks as well as some private and semi-private rooms for more intense action. The towelettes, condoms, lubricant and water are all free. While they all vary in popularity, videos displayed on the screens, size, facilities, supplies and age groups, the types of action going on in all of the theaters is quite similar. First, some petting, kissing and even more goes on in the seats, but usually the action is taken to more private areas as it heats up. Secondly, there is a lot of cruising and touching in the back of the theaters, aisles and hallways. More goes on in these darker areas, but for even hotter action, there are dark rooms that are semi-private, usually with curtains to provide a measure of privacy. Then, for the shy or those who want even more privacy, there are usually private rooms with a locking door and either a bunk or a couch and enough light to get a good look at your partner. You don't have to lock the door (some 3 and 4-way romps may spontaneously occur). And if you don't like the videos that are running, you can sometimes ask the attendant for your favorite genre (words like 'young twinks,' 'young Japanese,' 'elder Japanese men' or 'muscle men' are understood). The videos are all on computer and can be easily selected if the attendant is in a cooperative mood.
  • Jong Gak Cinema
    Jong-no Gu, 070-7715-2335, 010-2309-2335. Gay movies and meeting place. Free coffee and tea. Open daily 11am-midnight.
  • Jung-Ang DVD
    B/F Daewon Bld, Gosan-Dong 543-3, Ansan-city, Kungi-Do. Subway Line 4 (from Seoul), Jungang Station. Gay cruising cinema. Underground level acess through staircase and/or garage.

    Comments from Utopians:

    "Last Wed was at the DVD bang 'at the two telephone booths' (music market): lot of action and fun...but if you don't like smokers, don't go." -- flake51, Jul 8, 2011

• Parks
  • Namsan Park
    Utopia Map. Top of the hill behind Itaewon, between the Hilton and the Hyatt. After dark. Not exclusively gay, so be discreet as plenty of straight people come for a walk with their dogs or friends, even at late hours in the evening.

ITAEWON & "HOMO HILL"

• Buddha's Belly (Thai)
  673 Itaewong-2-Dong, Yongsan-Gu, 793-2173, email. Not far from Itaewon main drag.

  
  OTHER AREAS

  Sanchon (Korean temple cooking) 14 Kwanhoon-Dong Chongro-Gu, 735-0312. Extraordinary traditional Korean vegetarian temple feast served in dozens of small bowls in the charming environment of an old courtyard home. All sorts of unusual grasses, herbs, fermented soy soups, kimchee, rice noodles, tubers, roots, seaweed, vegetable pancakes, garlic paste, and on and on. End it all with your choice of delicious teas and light rice puff sweets. Come a bit early for dinner if you want to avoid the more expensive seating with traditional dance show.

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