136-6 Itaewon 1, Dong Young-San Gu (see map), Utopia Map, 3785-0834, 011-9256-7361, email. A beautifully designed gay chill-out bar in the thick of Itaewon's nightlife zone. From the Itaewon subway station, take exit #3 and walk straight ahead one block and make a right, then turn left at the next intersection. You'll see a sign for Almaz on the right side of this uphill lane about half a block up. Walk along the stone path to the entrance. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and make a left, then follow the same directions. Large picture windows open onto a pleasure garden of granite formations with charming rock pagodas below willowy trees. The former owner, who was looking to open a gay bar, beheld this snow-dusted garden and decided to open Almaz, which means "the treasure" in Arabic. The current owner, Micky, has built a wooden deck and furnished it with tables and chairs. Now it's quite likely the best place in Itaewon to enjoy the night air. The interior features cushy black leather sofas and decor in natural hues. The music is fresh and funky, with the volume kept at conversation-friendly levels. This comfortable and welcoming bar is a casual, cool space to chill. 용산구, 이태원 1동, 136-6

Comments from Utopians:

"Hung out in Almaz for a bit last week. It's a really groovy spot, with a great atmosphere. The prices aren't overly cheap, but that's average for Itaewon (and the atmosphere is totally worth it). I was there at about 10:30 on a Sat night, and it wasn't too busy: a few tables with some guys, but I was the only one at the bar. Definitely a good chill out spot, and worth checking out. Really beautiful." -- cyrc_84, Sep 6, 2009

See map, Utopia Map, 798-0578, 017-216-1140, email. A cozy modern bar next to Queen and across from Soho and Why Not?. From the Itaewon subway station, take exit #3 and walk straight ahead one block and make a right, then take the 2nd left. You'll see a sign for Always Homme on the left side of this uphill lane about half a block up. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and make a left, then follow the same directions. A popular pre/post club meeting place. Super friendly staff speak English and some German and Japanese. Barman Sean and waiter Moon can provide helpful info on the local scene. Owner, Paul, also runs Why Not?. Exceptional selection of fine wines, spirits, fresh juices, and quality coffees. Crowd is a combination of expats, tourists, and young locals. Open nightly from 8pm-ish until dawn, and afternoons on Sat and Sun. Utopia Member Discount

Bar Bliss 72-32 Itaewon, Yongsan (see map), Utopia Map, 749-7738, email. From Itaewon subway station, take Exit #4 and walk ahead 30m to the public phone booth. Turn left and you'll see a sign for Bar Bliss. Go down the stairway to street level and Bar Bliss is on the right. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and make a right, then follow the same directions. Bar Bliss is an elegant and relaxed wine bar. Originally called California Café, it is also the oldest openly gay club in Itaewon. The crowd is a handsome mix of well-clad gays and down-to-earth locals here to escape the drama and noise of nearby Homo Hill. Indoor patio with French windows, a colorful Asian lounge, an intimate bar surrounded by a stunning collection of art and an area for late night dancing and karaoke. Owner, Ted Park, is the long-time sage of Seoul's gay community. Ask him about Happy Hour specials and 70+ wines, cocktails and beer. Sun is Drag Queen Bingo night! Open daily from about 7pm until the wee hours. 주소 : 서울시 용산구 이태원동 72- 32 Utopia Member Discount

B/F 130-4 Yongsan-Gu Itaewon 1-Dong (see map), Utopia Map, 795-2080. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and walk straight down the hill and take the first right turn. Fu is half a block down this lane, on the left side. You will see a small square red sign hung off of a parking garage that says Fu. Take the stairway at the back of this garage down to Fu. A sexy, elegant club with bar and lounge seating in three areas. The design is a modern take on an exotic Asian den, with red walls glowing in flickering candlelight and recessed lighting in alcoves filled with Asia-modern objet. Educated, well-dressed patrons. Though mostly Korean it is welcoming to foreigners. Very smoky though. 용산구, 이태원 1동, 130-4

See map. From the Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and keep walking with your back to the Hamilton quite a ways until you get to a major 3-way intersection where the road continues straight or goes right. There's a Kashmir Restaurant and a Buy the Way store on one corner, the Hye Sun Gallery and a Motel sign on the other. Hanabi is across the street between a Real Estate Office and the Hamilton Store. Go in the doorway between the buildings and take the steps upstairs to 2/F. Hanabi is on the left at the intersection. Friendly staff and nice place to chill out. Not much English spoken.

4/F, 127-1 Itaewon Dong, Young-San Gu, 790-6610, email. From the Itaewon subway station, take Exit #3 and walk straight ahead one block and make a right. OWOO is in the building on the corner, across from the fire station. Gay-owned OWOO is a northern European styled Nordic lounge bar. A cozy and comfortable place for everybody including gays, lesbians and straights. Utopia Member Discount

Utopia Map. Located next to Always Homme (see map) and across the street from Soho. Quite small with half of the space occupied by a bar with bar seating. Against the wall opposite the bar is a long wall shelf with more stools. It is nicely decorated, with friendly bartenders. A good place for a drink for singles or couples, but not great for groups since there is no table seating.

Located on Homo Hill between Trance and Always Homme (see map), Utopia Map, 793-1290, email. Everyone is welcome at this trendy gay club managed by Keith, an effervescent Canadian. From the Itaewon subway station, take exit #3 and walk straight ahead one block and make a right, then take the 2nd left. You'll see a sign for Queen on the left side of this uphill lane about half a block up. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and make a left, then follow the same directions. Queen emphasizes cool, funky pizzazz and the decor is exactly that. Large windows look out over Homo Hill and a strip of glittery bubble chairs line the patio for good weather front row seating. Bar and lounge seating inside. Crowd is 20-45, international and friendly. Gets busy after 10pm and crazy packed on weekends.

See map, Utopia Map, 797-2280, (019) 357-3235, email. Adjacent to Why Not? and opposite Always Homme. From the Itaewon subway station, take exit #3 and walk straight ahead one block and make a right, then take the 2nd left. You'll see a sign for Soho on the right side of this uphill lane about half a block up. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and make a left, then follow the same directions. Friendly, international bar. English speaking staff. Pool table and several small TV screens.

B/F 136-42 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-Gu (see map), Utopia Map, 797-3410. On Homo Hill, next to Queen and opposite Why Not?. From the Itaewon subway station, take exit #3 and walk straight ahead one block and make a right, then take the 2nd left. You'll see a sign for Trance on the left side of this uphill lane about half a block up. Take the stairway down to the basement. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and make a left, then follow the same directions. Good music and dancing. Packed late at night and on Fri and Sat nights when they have a drag show. Friendly staff, English speaking. Cruisy. Local and foreign patrons. Lots of grabbing when it gets crowded. 용산구 이태원동 136-42

137-4 Yongsan-Ku (see map), Utopia Map, 795-8193, email. From the Itaewon subway station, take exit #3 and walk straight ahead one block and make a right, then take the 2nd left. You'll see a sign for Why Not? on the right side of this uphill lane about half a block up. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and make a left, then follow the same directions. House music draws the dance crowd after midnight until dawn. Upscale local/foreign crowd with higher ranking soldiers, embassy workers, foreign English and educated, well-dressed Koreans. Very nice staff who make conversation with everyone and seem to be having a genuinely good time. The club plays American pop remixes, techno and some house. Open late. Busiest between 12:30-2:30am. Highly recommended for visitors. Some lesbian patrons as well. 용산구 이태원 137-4

JONGNO / NAGWON DONG

Jongno, 3672-0940, email. Jongno-3 Ga Subway Station exit #3 or #8. Coming out of either exit, you can easily spot the Barcode sign, at the corner of intersection. The sign says 'membership club' but no membership is needed to enter. This friendly bar welcomes visitors from around the world. A nice, western style bar with a clean interior and good drink prices. Staff speaks English very well and are pleased to fill you in on the gay scene. Reasonable prices on many kinds of wine, whiskey, beer, and cocktails. Patrons tend to be pandas (Asian bears).

Comments from Utopians:

"The owner of Barcode spent a few years living in NYC, speaks fluent English and makes every customer, whether local or foreign, feel at home. The bar is modern and upbeat and it doesn't matter if you go alone or with a group of friends. Locals are happy to mingle with foreigners and exchange stories and laughs. The bar is L-shaped and there are also tables for groups of people. The owner undoubtedly makes the best cocktails in Seoul, so be sure to ask him for your favourite cocktail, even if it's not on the list. The cocktails are reasonably priced and I can personally recommend the Long Island Ice Tea. Barcode's crowd is mixed and it's possible to find all sorts of guys. Most tend to be in their 20s and 30s." -- singlenote, Dec 6, 2008

132-2 Ikseon-dong, Jongro-gu, 747-8591, 010-7164-3405. Gay bar serving wine, beer, and cocktails.

745-5238. A small, upmarket gay lounge with a strong link to cinema. It seats around 20 and provides a quieter, comfortable atmosphere. Prices are reasonable. Take a taxi to the English Language Studies (ELS) building in Chongno 3 Ga (a well known landmark). Walk along the cross road opposite the ELS building. Cross to the first lane on the right. Walk along past a few shops on your left and take the first set of open stairs. Turn left at the top to enter Cine City.

765-2101. Next to Tapgol Park.

Jong Ro 3 Ga, 764-5640, email. Western style shot bar for big and middle-aged men.

B/F of a yogwan (motel) near the Jongo 3-Ga station, 3673-4200.

Jongno Nakwon Dong, 02-743-5090, email. Near the Jongno 3-Ga Subway Station, Lane 5. An elegant, modern cocktail bar where you may enjoy beer, a selection of good wines, spirits, fresh juices or coffee. Open from 7pm-2am weekdays and until 4am on weekends.

332-5753. Reported to be popular with locals and expats. Latin music and snacks.

B1 #127-3 Itaewon Yongsan-GuItaewanno St (two buildings down from Our Place and Equus, see map), Yongsan-gu, Utopia Map, 792-6662. Upscale gay bar and lounge. The menu is fairly large including whole bottle sales of white and red wine and champagne, plus the usual cocktails, bottled beers and a good coffee and juice selection.

3785-0939. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and keep walking with Hamilton at your back. Tsunami is quite a ways down on the left in a small alley just before Hanabi and the 3-way intersection.

Utopia Map, 790-0391. From Hamilton Hotel, cross the street and keep walking with Hamilton at your back. W is 2 blocks down on the left.

JONGNO / NAGWON DONG

4/F Sky Lounge Bld (behind Tapgol Park), 744-0833.

742-5055. 30m from exit #5 of the Jongo 5-Ga subway station.

Nagwon-dong 220 (behind Tapgol Park), 742-4372. The name refers to facial hair. Two muscular masters work here, both in their early 40s and with facial hair, of course. One speaks fluent Japanese and the other English. Customers are in their 30s-50s, good looking and nicely built. It has a large following

744-6997. Near exit #5 of the Jongo 5-Ga subway station.

Sky Lounge Bld (behind Tapgol Park), 3672-7874.

764-2406. Near exit #5 of the Jongo 3-Ga subway station.

OTHER AREAS

2/F Daewon Bld, Gosan-Dong 543-3, Ansan-city, Kungi-Do. Subway Line 4 (from Seoul), Jungang Station.