Vietnam's capital city is lively and full of charm. The diminutive old quarter is a canton of shady, tree-lined lanes with names like "Comb Street" that reflect the goods traditionally sold from its shophouses. In fact, virtually any patch of open street or sidewalk is turned into a place to sell anything or park a motor bike. Pedestrians are often forced to share the road with traffic in an intricate ballet that must be quickly mastered the moment you ease out of your hotel (don't dash!).

Hoan Kiem Lake sits at the hub of the old city, a jade mirror reflecting the French colonial facades and Chinese ornamentation that have both contributed to the city's heritage. The Opera House and classic Metropole Hotel are at one end and the old quarter and markets are at the other. For shopping, you might want to bring a calculator with you: Vietnam's instant millionaire Monopoly money is fun to play with but exhausting to manage.

While there are plenty of gays in Hanoi, most are cornered into marriage and raising a family, and they don't frequent public spots where they might be subject to gossip. This makes for a quiet gay scene at mostly mixed places. The Internet has become the primary method for educated, working gays to meet each other and foreigners. This shadowy life has also made gay tourists a target for scams and hustlers -- Hanoi is full of smiling, fresh faces that flirt for fun and are looking to seize any opportunity to rise up out of poverty. But local gays want you to know that criminal characters are in the minority, and you'll have a lovely time here if you just use your common sense and, again, don't dash into anything. We suggest you make some friendly contacts online before you arrive, rather than succumb to visions in Hanoi's romantic haze.

The metropolitan population of Hanoi is nearing 4 million (that's about 160,000 Utopians).

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• Bao Khanh St (just west of Hoan Kiem Lake). This tiny gay street is cruisy all the time. Local gays enjoy talking with their friends in the small cafés or hawker restaurants with small chairs on the foot path. Most of cuisine is pho (rice noodles) with ga (chicken) or bo (beef). You also find hair salons on Bao Khanh St. UTOPIAN VERIFIED JAN 2011

• Hang Khong (airline) swimming pool
• Ho Tay lake
• Hoan Kiem Lake -- beware of rip-off criminals posing as friendly gays.
• outside the walls of the French Embassy
• Lao Dong swimming pool
• Lenin Park -- beware of rip-off criminals posing as friendly gays.
• Thien Quang lake, especially cruisy, but beware of rip-off criminals posing as friendly gays.

• Daluva Wine | Tapas | Events
  33 To Ngoc Van St, Tay Ho Dist, Utopia Map, 3718-5831, email. Trendy, gay and lesbian-friendly neighborhood restaurant and bar, 15 minutes from Hoan Kiem Lake. All-day breakfasts, such as eggs Benedict, plus fresh salads, Aussie steaks, tapas and small plates. Great cocktails. They gladly help visitors get the lay of the land. Also see their listing for Daluva Home lodging under Accommodations. Plus car and driver and travel and tour services. Open from 8am-late. Utopia Member Discount
• Little Hanoi (French and Vietnamese)
  21 Hang Gai St (just a block away from Hoan Kiem Lake), 828-8333. Not as yummy as street food (tasteless quiche, uninspired spring rolls), but a charming and clean interior that attracts local expats and tourists alike. Two rooms, one with a long bar, and tables at the windows for people watching. Open daily from 7:20am-9:30pm.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Hanoi Social Club at 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3938-2117, has a rainbow flag on the front door and Hanoi pride flags on display inside. You can also buy an educational book of real life stories by Vietnamese lesbians. It's owned by an Australian and very queer-friendly." -- J-Beau, Apr 28, 2013

  "Yesterday I went to a GREAT gay-owned café/bar where the owner takes the time to help local Hanoi disadvantaged youth and trains them with café and beauty salon work. La Grace at 51 Truc Bach has a wonderful view of the local lake out the front door and the top floor has a beauty salon." -- dospa, Oct 1, 2012

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