HANOI -- area code (84-4)

Vietnam's capital city is lively and full of charm. The diminutive old quarter is a canton of shady, tree-lined lanes with names like "Comb Street" that reflect the goods traditionally sold from its shophouses. In fact, virtually any patch of open street or sidewalk is turned into a place to sell anything or park a motor bike. Pedestrians are often forced to share the road with traffic in an intricate ballet that must be quickly mastered the moment you ease out of your hotel (don't dash!).

Hoan Kiem Lake sits at the hub of the old city, a jade mirror reflecting the French colonial facades and Chinese ornamentation that have both contributed to the city's heritage. The Opera House and classic Metropole Hotel are at one end and the old quarter and markets are at the other. For shopping, you might want to bring a calculator with you: Vietnam's instant millionaire Monopoly money is fun to play with but exhausting to manage.

While there are plenty of gays in Hanoi, most are cornered into marriage and raising a family, and they don't frequent public spots where they might be subject to gossip. This makes for a quiet gay scene at mostly mixed places. The Internet has become the primary method for educated, working gays to meet each other and foreigners. This shadowy life has also made gay tourists a target for scams and hustlers -- Hanoi is full of smiling, fresh faces that flirt for fun and are looking to seize any opportunity to rise up out of poverty. But local gays want you to know that criminal characters are in the minority, and you'll have a lovely time here if you just use your common sense and, again, don't dash into anything. We suggest you make some friendly contacts online before you arrive, rather than succumb to visions in Hanoi's romantic haze.

The metropolitan population of Hanoi is nearing 4 million (that's about 160,000 Utopians).

• Hanoi Gay Scene Updates message forum
• Men in Hanoi message forum

The expanded and updated 2nd Edition of the Utopia Guide to Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar & Vietnam offers a remarkable insider's glimpse at the gay and lesbian scene in 18 cities including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon, Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Yangon/Rangoon, Phnom Penh, and Angkor Wat/Siem Reap. Enjoy savvy comments and recommendations from local Utopians, as well as gay travelers. Click here to order

• Hai Dang (Light House)
  736-6653. A club, under the auspices of the Center for HIV/AIDS and Sexually Transmitted Disease Prevention, which offers social support and HIV education to the GLBT community as well as sponsoring events and activities.

Click here for Hanoi hotels and accommodations.

• Connect Café
  So 8, Duong 2, Khu Tap The F361, An Duong, Quan Tay Ho, 717-1227. Located near Hanoi's west lake, about 15 minutes by taxi from Hoan Kiem Lake.
• GC (Golden Cock)
  5 Bao Khanh St, (just west of Hoan Kiem Lake). Upscale, western music, pool table. Tends to be packed on Sat between 10-11pm as it closes early.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "A lot of beautiful locals. I had a good time. Guys here are pretty friendly, but they seem very shy, you have to talk to them first. Not many people around on weekdays though." -- keavin521, May 15, 2009

  "This is a small street with a lot of cafés, restaurants and CD shops. During the weekend, many gays gather at GC. If you want to know Hanoi gay life, come and see." -- LeHung, Oct 5, 2008

• Cay Xoai (mixed)
  Truc Bach lake. Gay-owned.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Many people in Solace Bar are foreigners and gay. After GC bar closes, gays move here. It is on Chuong Duong Do St, across Hong Ha St, on Red River next center. It has a very good crowd from midnight-2am, with hiphop music." -- guy_in_hanoi, Nov 21, 2008

• Bao Khanh St (just west of Hoan Kiem Lake). The outdoor coffee shops at the bend in the road are very cruisy.
• Hang Khong (airline) swimming pool
• Ho Tay lake
• Hoan Kiem Lake -- beware of rip-off criminals posing as friendly gays.
• outside the walls of the French Embassy
• Lao Dong swimming pool
• Lenin Park -- beware of rip-off criminals posing as friendly gays.
• Thien Quang lake, especially cruisy, but beware of rip-off criminals posing as friendly gays.

• Daluva Wine | Tapas | Events
  33 To Ngoc Van St, Tay Ho Dist, Utopia Map, 3718-5831, email. Gay and lesbian-friendly neighborhood restaurant and bar, 15 minutes from Hoan Kiem Lake. Stylish venue open daily from 8am-late. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and small plates, great cocktails. They'll gladly help visitors get the lay of the land. Open and friendly to all. Ask about their serviced short-stay boutique apartment on 4/F. Utopia Member Discount
• Little Hanoi (French and Vietnamese)
  21 Hang Gai St (just a block away from Hoan Kiem Lake), 828-8333. Not as yummy as street food (tasteless quiche, uninspired spring rolls), but a charming and clean interior that attracts local expats and tourists alike. Two rooms, one with a long bar, and tables at the windows for people watching. Open daily from 7:20am-9:30pm.

Click here for Hanoi saunas for men.