PHNOM PENH -- area code (855-23)

Phnom Penh is provincial in atmosphere: no high-rises, lots of old French architecture tucked away on side streets, and the roads are packed with scooters. The capitol city is crowned by the pretty gardens and evocative structures of its Grand Palace. Residents gather by the riverside to watch street magic, to munch fresh snacks, or to promenade along its banks in the cool of late day. Shady temple courtyards bekon, as do mobile phone sales booths which dot the city streets, covered in sequences of lucky numbers, like monuments of mystical numerologists.

Visit the National Museum, whose superb Khmer treasures radiate magic as you wander its galleries in the slight fever heat of the day. Just outside, vendors display lurid florescent paintings on black velvet or scaled-down versions of Angkor sculptures destined for decorative nooks around the globe.

Darker history ripples below every surface, emerging as a cloud of bats at dusk. Children patiently re-trace classical dance gestures, nearly lost to time and war, but threaded into the very blood and soul of Cambodians.

The population of the capital city is over 1 million (that's about 40,000 Utopians).

• Men in Phnom Penh message forum

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Click here for Phnom Penh hotels and accommodations.

• Blue Chilli Pub
  St 178 (next to National Museum), email. Openly gay and lesbian-friendly bar, where the guys are not only handsome, but charming. Dance with their DJ into the early hours. Also, try their intimate Blue Room. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Blue Chilli Pub is very fun. The owners/management do their best to make you feel welcome, not only at their place - but to Cambodia as a whole. The local guys are also very warm and friendly. A great place to hang out." -- tip68, Dec 8, 2007

  "The Blue Chilli Pub seems to be coming into its own. All of a sudden it's a happening place. Oak, the Thai barman/owner, really loves his guests and makes you feel very welcome. Crowd is more expats and permanent residents rather than tourists." -- top8guy, Mar 19, 2007

• Equinox (mixed)
  3E St 278, 012-586-139. Gay-owned and gay-friendly. Pool tables, upstairs bar, live music, art exhibitions and even original clothing and accessories.
• Monsoon Wine Bar (mixed)
  #17, Street 104, 012-214-973, email. This gay and lesbian-friendly wine bar is intimate, air-conditioned, and offers a great selection of international wines by the glass/bottle. Also, nibble from their selection of divine Pakistani dishes. Cool tunes, guest DJs. Utopia Member Discount
• Pow-Pow's Coffee House and Bar
  172 House #10, 092-529-245, email. gay-owned. A quiet, charming gay-owned bar that serves fine coffee and pastry in the morning hours and from 5pm-closing. They serve beers from around the world and mixed cocktails.
• Salt Lounge
  No. 217, Street 136 (near the river), 012-289-905, email. Gay Khmer owned and operated bar located in the heart of Phnom Penh river district. Reasonably priced cocktails and spirits. Couches and lounge chairs for maximum comfort. Beats include all the best lounge and funky house, with a mixture of Khmer and western pop. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Salt Lounge is a friendly hangout." -- utipaka, Dec 10, 2007

  "Visited a wonderful gay bar called the Salt Lounge. Fun novelty drinks with risque names and, more importantly, lots of friendly local gay guys. Saw no foreigners but I was welcomed fully. :)" -- Richard0460, Jan 2, 2006

• Soho 2 (mixed)
  3 Street 118 Riverside (off Sisovath Quay Blvd), email. A lot of gays go here as an alternative to The Heart of Darkness which is a block away. Good music. Open nightly until 2am.
• Talking to a Stranger (mixed)
  House 21b, Street 294, 012-798-530. Gay-friendly garden bar. Staff are very friendly. There are regular musical events, live music and DJs. Also serving good western soul-food (bread and butter pudding like Mum used to make). Closed Mon.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Talking to a Stranger has moved and now has bigger premises and a better drink selection. Same gay-friendly owners and great staff. Bi-weekly quiz on Tue. Roast lamb dinners every Thu." -- talkinpp, Jan 29, 2008

• Tonle Sap
  Located along the river, near Wat Phnom. Go here for traditional Cambodian music and local gay men and beautiful transgenders. Dark and cruisy. Easy to approach the locals sitting at tables in groups.
• VIP Guest House Bar
  252 Street 107 (near Capitol Guest House), 012-894-636, email. Gay bar and guesthouse.

• Classic
  Behind the Grand Palace. A local disco geared mainly towards local Cambodian transgender and their admirers.
• The Heart of Darkness (mixed)
  26 Street 51 Pasteur. Gay-owned and fun place that is popular with both local and expat gays. Beware of hustlers (in the minority). Packed on weekends and always busy.
• River House Lounge Bar (mixed)
  Nice looking place with a colonial style ambience. Not especially gay but good music.
• U2 (mixed)
  On Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Flashy, large disco populated by middle class Khmer and Khmer-Americans. Good drag shows. Dark and cruisy. Busiest on weekends.

• Royal Palace vicinity

• Bougainvillier (Khmer and fine French cuisine)
  277 Sisowath Quay, 220-528, FAX 220-529, email. A gay and lesbian-friendly restaurant located in a boutique hotel on the river front in the tourist area, 2 minutes from the Royal Palace and National Museum. Khmer and fine French cuisine from the French chef (homemade foie gras, fish and Argentinean beef). Utopia Member Discount
• K-West (contemporary Asian/European cuisine)
  Sisowath Quay at the corner of Street 154 (below Amanjaya Pancam Hotel), 023-214-4747, email. Upscale.
• The Riverhouse (French)
  Sisowath Quay (corner of Street 110), 023-212-3929, email. Very nice, friendly and liberal-minded management. Great food. Dancing Friday, Saturday. Live bands, Sunday. Open 4pm until late.
• Two Fish Gallery Café (Asian and western)
  #9 Street 278, 016-368-700. An exhibition space for Asian art in a café setting. Gay-owned and operated by Taiwanese-born painter, David Huang, and his partner. The café serves a blend of Asian and western home-style cooking, fresh juices, coffee and sweets. Much of the cooking has been inspired by David’s Mum’s home cooking. View the art while sampling goodies from their menu. Open for lunch, dinner and private parties. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Two Fish Gallery Café in Phnom Penh is excellent. It is located in a lovely house and serves delicous food and beverages. The waiters are handsome and friendly." -- sydmark, Apr 3, 2007

  Comments from Utopians:

  "As a longtime resident of Phnom Penh I get around to lots of venues. Some get boring fast, and some I just keep going back to. Fusion (51 and 130 near Psah Thmei) is a stylish Thai-Khmer restaurant with excellent food, and good prices. It's not a gay place (although I often see couples and groups of guys there), just a good restaurant. When you are at the Central Market drop in as it's the only smart place in the area." -- top8guy, Mar 26, 2007

• AMAM Cafe & Spa
  20A St 390, 012-950-916, email. Located in a little street between Cinema Bokor and the Tuol Sleng Museum. Parking for motos only (the best way to come is by moto taxi). Steam sauna, jacuzzi, rest and video room, electronic music. Homey and friendly atmosphere. Open 4-11pm Thu-Sun. Utopia Member Discount