Phnom Penh is quickly shedding its provincial atmosphere. High-rises and mega-developments are springing up on the city's horizon, and tricked up tuk-tuks are having to scoot around more and more gas-guzzling vanity vehicles.

The capitol city remains crowned by the pretty gardens and evocative structures of its Grand Palace. Residents gather by the riverside to watch street magic, to munch fresh snacks, or to promenade along its banks in the cool of late day. Shady temple courtyards bekon, as do mobile phone sales booths which dot the city streets, covered in sequences of lucky numbers, like monuments of mystical numerologists.

Visit the National Museum, whose superb Khmer treasures radiate magic as you wander its galleries in the slight fever heat of the day. Just outside, vendors display lurid florescent paintings on black velvet or scaled-down versions of Angkor sculptures destined for decorative nooks around the globe.

Cambodia cool art and design are evident everywhere in trendy restaurants and shops. Even the vivid color schemes of homes and shophouses express the optimism and vibrancy of the city's residents.

Dance seems to be a national pastime. Groups of people gather at dusk in parks and public areas to dance in unison for exercise. Children once again patiently re-trace classical dance gestures, nearly lost to time and war, but threaded into the Khmer soul. "Freshie" teens with animé haircuts echo the urban hip-hop dance moves and styles that thread the world of youth together around the globe.

There are a growing number of gay businesses now where you may meet locals, so you'll likely have little problem connecting. Everyone here is working hard, so most socializing in saunas and bars takes place between dusk and 10pm, unless it is a weekend or holiday.

The population of the capital city is nearing three million (that's close to 120,000 Utopians).

Phnom Penh's gay and lesbian scene is easy to navigate using our Utopia Map:

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• La Gallerie X-Em Design UTOPIA VERIFIED JUL 2015, UTOPIA VISITED JUL 2012
  #13 Street 178, Utopia Map
  722-252, 092-764-836, email

  Showcase for gay contemporary painter and designer, Em Riem. His Asia-modern designs include ceramic skulls, porcelain cups made from casts of discarded water bottles, and whimsical lamps made from a variety of unexpected materials. His paintings on exhibit during our visit included monumental portraits of farm animals in saturated, pop colors, and conceptual male and female nudes painted onto canvases made of discarded rice sacks. Exhibiting around the world, Em is one of Cambodia's emerging national treasures.
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Click here for Phnom Penh Massage and Spas for Men.

• Baitong Restaurant (Asian) UTOPIA VERIFIED JUL 2020
  #7 Street 360, Utopia Map
  630-3005, email

  Gay and lesbian-friendly. Baitong is the Khmer word for green. They serve high quality, healthy Asian food in a relaxing environment. Meeting and training rooms available. They are a hub for civil society groups and small businesses in Phnom Penh.
  Utopia Member Benefit: 10% DISCOUNT on all food and drinks.
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• Malis (Khmer fine dining) UTOPIA VERIFIED JAN 2023, UTOPIA VISITED AUG 2014
  #136 Street 41 (3 blocks south of Independence Monument, Utopia Map
  221-022, 221-121, email

  Contemporary Cambodian garden and pond setting for superb Khmer fine dining. Try the spiced pork slices on banana flower and herb salad, savory duck stew, scallops and coconut milk steamed rice wrapped in lotus leaves, and much, much more (including a warm banana pudding with sago 'pearls' and cubes of banana that taste like a morph between marshmallows and buffallo mozzarella!).
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• D.Hindley UTOPIA VERIFIED FEB 2023, UTOPIA VISITED JUN 2017
  No 9, Street 184 (close to Street 19, just behind the Royal Palace), Utopia Map
  012-327-107, email

  Gay-owned jewelry shop offering beautiful Cambodian gemstones; from affordable to extravagant. They sell quality gemstones and jewelry. Their 18k Pride Ring features a fabulous rainbow of stones including ruby and sapphire. Open daily, 9am­7pm.
  Utopia Member Benefit: 10% DISCOUNT on all gold jewelry.
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• Garden of Desire UTOPIA VERIFIED FEB 2023, UTOPIA VISITED JUL 2012
  52B Oknha Chhun St (Street 240),, Utopia Map
  011-351-887

  Superb contemporary Khmer jewelry and wearable art. Truly world-class designs by owner Pisith and other top local craftsmen. Besides being a fascinating artist (almost every piece has a compelling conceptual story behind it), he is also dedicated to cultivating artistic creativity in young Cambodians.
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