The expanded and updated 2nd Edition of the Utopia Guide to Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar & Vietnam offers a remarkable insider's glimpse at the gay and lesbian scene in 18 cities including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon, Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Yangon/Rangoon, Phnom Penh, and Angkor Wat/Siem Reap. Enjoy savvy comments and recommendations from local Utopians, as well as gay travelers. Click here to order

Once the heart of a magnificent kingdom that stretched from Vietnam through Thailand, Cambodia is home to a true world wonder -- the jungle-tangled ruins of Angkor and its complex of Hindu and Buddhist temples, palaces, and sanctuaries that, in its day, dwarfed any city in western civilization.

Today, having survived centuries of war and strife, the land and its people are once again at peace and no tourist to the region should miss a chance to explore its historic relics and lush green countryside, home to unspoiled nature and unforgettable encounters.

There's a vibrant emerging gay scene in the capital city, Phnom Penh, that should not be missed by travelers who are tired of the slick and predatory scenes that can be found elsewhere in the region. Cambodian gays are not opressed by colonial law or anti-gay religious traditions, although many are pressured to get married and they enjoy their gay nature after work and before going home to their families. Expats have also contributed creative rainbow ventures that are more colorfully visible than the discreet Khmer scene. The younger, "Freshie" generation do not seem inclined to hide themselves or to view homosexuality too seriously. Bisexuality is common place. AIDS/HIV education is openly addressing sexual topics, introducing knowledge about homosexuality in a practical, rational way.

Most young gays don't relate to the traditional slang term for transgender, tuey (from gateuy, the same term used in Thailand). Health educators prefer phatti bai (third sex), but drag queens have developed their own home-grown terms: bur (from the French beurre for butter) for "smooth as butter" feminine gays; mas for masculine gays; and buu (from table "pool") for bisexuals (who shoot their balls into all pockets).

Almost all monetary transactions are in US dollars or Cambodia riel (do not accept ripped money as change because you will not be able to spend it or trade it). Traditional markets will take Thai baht. Most hotels, and some guesthouses and restaurants, accept credit cards. Cash advances on credit cards are available at banks. Moneychangers, found around markets, can exchange other denominations into US dollars. It is a good idea to carry small riel notes for moto (motorcycle taxi), tuk-tuks, snacks and small purchases. Try to use transportation known to your hotel as they are the same price as other drivers, but safer and often have mobile phones so you can call when you need to be picked up. Those working with gay-friendly hotels know the gay venues well.

• Cambodians celebrate at their 2nd Annual GLBT Pride Party!
  
• Cambodia Gay & Lesbian News
• Cambodia Gay Scene Updates message forum
• Cambodia Lesbian Scene Updates message forum
• Men in Cambodia message forum
• Travel in Cambodia message forum
• Women in Cambodia message forum

• AIDS/HIV organizations and information
• MStyle
  Email. Cambodia's peer-led, discrete and non-judgmental social and support network for Khmer-speaking MSM (men who love men).

• Bons Voyages
  St 240, Phnom Penh, (855-23) 986-086, FAX (855-23) 427-352, email. A gay-and-lesbian-friendly travel agency established in Cambodia in 1996. They provide all services expected from a tour operator, with packages including Phnom Penh, Sambor Prey Kuk, Siem Reap/Angkor Wat and Beng Mealea.
• Heritic Asia Travel Co, Ltd
  #6D, off Street 169, 7 Makara, +855-23-881-861, FAX +855-23-881-732, email. Gay and lesbian-friendly tours, guides and travel in Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville, Preah Vihear and other historic sites. Create your own custom itinerary or select from a wide variety of packages.
• Purple Dragon
  (66-2) 634-0273, FAX (66-2) 267-2150, email. Asia's oldest and largest gay travel company. Purple Dragon offers hundreds of options using local English-speaking guides throughout Thailand, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, India and China. Offices in Bangkok, Phuket and Siem Reap (Angkor Wat).

Battambang

Cambodia's second largest town, Battambang, is a lovely heritage city on the Sangkar River. It's a town of Thai/Italian colonial architecture that sits in Cambodia's rice bowl. Not a gay mecca, yet many Khmer consider it a gay paradise in Cambodia because it is tolerant and easy-going. The countryside is astonishingly beautiful and rural areas around Battambang are home to photogenic traditional villages as well as some impressive Angkor-era ruins. It's a quick 3-hour ride from Siem Reap and a beautiful 5-8 hour boat ride across the Tonle Sap. Two hours east of Poi Pet at the Thai border. Most travelers miss it, but Utopians looking for peace, beauty and authenticity will want to pay a visit.

• Affinity Battambang
  012-254-554, 015-254-554, email. Professional, licensed and openly gay guide to Battambang and vicinity. Explore the heritage town, nearby Angkor ruins as well as the charming country life. Find out what's new on the local scene and experience an insider's view of historic and contemporary Khmer life. Flexible hours and completely custom intineraries with your interests in mind. You'll steer clear of tourist traps and commission shopping. Honest, friendly and a good sense of humor about life. English and Mandarin spoken. Reasonable rates. Car and tuk-tuk arrangements.

• Sky (mixed)
  Intense techno and R&B is interrupted every so often for 10 minutes of slow dancing (you can't be alone on the dance floor for this, even if it means grabbing a same sex partner, and many guys do). Busy from 10pm-1am.

• Champey Garden Restaurant
  +85599699996, email. Gay-friendly Khmer-Thai restaurant in Battambang town. Romantic and comfortable. Fast service, cool beer, good eats at reasonable prices.
• Khmer Delight Restaurant (Asian and European)
  012-671-911. One block west of the main market, three blocks north of the river (a block towards the river from the Gecko Café). Super friendly, centrally located, and rainbow-managed.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "If you walk past this little restaurant at night you will surely do a double take. Soft lighting, starched napkins, mood music...wow. Run by a young Khmer guy, and quality-controlled by a great South African/Australian guy and his Khmer bf, this is fast becoming the meeting point for the gay population of Battambang. And deservedly so, because the meals are fabulous (where else could you get a huge plate of prawns for $2). The chilled wines and the cocktails are to die for." -- muliama, Aug 13, 2009

Kep

Kep is located on the ocean at Cambodia's southern border with Vietnam. A former seaside playground for wealthy French and Cambodians, it is now returning to popularity with recent development and investment. There is a large national park here, bountiful seafood, and island of Koh Thonsay is a short boat ride away.

Click here for Kep hotels and accommodations.

Comments from Utopians:

"Auberge le Bout du Monde: New restaurant and bar with a French gay manager. Best view in Kep -- sea, Bokor mountain, Phu Quoc in Vietnam. Wonderful sunset. Old bungalows became small Khmer traditional house. Khmer and western food, all with local product and Khmer chef." -- francois1, Jul 28, 2009

PHNOM PENH -- area code (855-23)

Click here for Phnom Penh listings.

SIEM REAP / ANGKOR -- Area Code (855-63)

Click here for Siem Reap / Angkor listings.

Sihanoukville -- Area Code (855-34)

Population is over 60,000 (that's about 2,500 Utopians).

• Sihanoukville Gay Guide
  14 Mikthona St, Sankat 4 DevaRaja Villa Hotel, 016-314-522, email. Expert gay guide to the sights of Sihanoukville and the surrounding area. One-on-one personalized trips to Ream National Park, the islands, Kbal Chay waterfall, Otres Beach and Prek Tek Sap River. For a fun and interesting day exploring the natural beauty of Cambodia, rely on your Sihanoukville Gay Guide. Utopia Member Discount

Click here for Sihanoukville hotels and accommodations.

• Blue Storm (mixed)
  Space-age decor with blacklight (hey, its Cambodia). Dance mix after 10:30pm. Handsome waiters and transgender guests add gay spice to the happy crowd. Friendly management is in the know about the local scene.

In Sihanoukville, you will easily meet new friends on the beaches and in cafes and restaurants in the town.