OSAKA -- area code (81-6)

There are three major gay neighborhoods in Osaka: Doyama-cho, the easiest for visitors to find and navigate; Kabukiza-ura ("behind the Kabuki theater") in Namba, which is smaller and less international but still very friendly; and Tennoji, in the area around Tsutenkaku Tower, which is the original post-war gay neighborhood and has a reputation as being a bit dangerous. Mostly older Japanese men go to Tennoji these days, but some of its saunas are more broadly popular.

Instructions to the Doyama-cho gay nightlife area: from the JR Train Station, take the south exit, turn left and cross the street to the Hankyu Umeda Station building and continue through to the other side where you will find the large, red HEP 5 shopping center (with the huge red Ferris wheel on the roof) and to its left, adjacent to the elevated tracks, a shopping alley called EST St. Continue down EST St two blocks until it dead-ends at the main avenue with the overhead highway and turn right to the corner of the major intersection. Doyama-cho is now diagonally opposite from where you are. Cross left under the overhead highway, then turn right and cross the smaller diagonal street. You are now at the corner edge of Doyama-cho, a maze of late night bars and restaurants. Turn left at this corner and walk to the next alleyway and take a right. Take this alley straight ahead to find Lupu, Coco love hotel, and Hokuoukan sauna. Explore the alleys to the right in the vicinity for many of the bars mentioned below, which advertise their names on rows of small signs that rise vertically on the building exteriors.

Exploring Doyama-cho is easy with our map:

DOYAMA-CHO

• Hokuoukan
  If Babylon Bangkok is the ultimate men's club in Asia, Hokuoukan runs a close second. This popular sauna welcomes well-behaved non-Japanese and the crowd, mostly men in their 30s and 40s, is friendly indeed. Bring your passport (in case there are any questions about your age) and leave any large luggage or bags in a coin locker at the train station (sauna lockers are only large enough for a backpack and your clothing). Five minutes walk from the Osaka Station and the Hankyu Umeda Train Station, in the Doyama gay nightlife area (see general directions and map under Bars & Clubs), one block from Lupu bar, on the opposite side of the street from Coco love hotel. Their sign on the building is spelled "Hokuohkan". There are also circular, lit English language signs for the sauna on many lampposts in the neighborhood with helpful arrows pointing you in the right direction. Entrance is behind an exterior privacy wall and through two sliding glass doors (touch the electric "door handle" to activate). TAKE YOUR SHOES OFF before stepping onto the raised platform. Walk into the shoe locker area and deposit a Y$10 coin first, then lock your shoes inside. No need to remember the number in Japanese as you will be given a matching locker key in a handy wrist band (even numbers are for lower lockers, so you might want to get an odd number for easier access to your locker). Next, go to the ticket machine opposite the check-in desk and decide whether you just want the sauna (until midnight) or overnight (private rooms are also available, but you can sleep in the mix rooms, bunk beds, or cubicles if you don't mind being occasionally pestered, pleasurably or otherwise). Tickets are dispensed by age range, listed above lighted buttons, so find the price for your age group (under 26, under 40 and over 40). Feed the machine with Y$ bills or coins and press the appropriate button. The machine will dispense change. If you have any problems the desk attendant will assist you. Next, give your shoe locker key and ticket to the attendant who will give you your locker key and a bag containing a comfortable yukata robe (in jumbo size also), towel and washcloth (that doubles as a sexy sarong for skinny types). Find the locker that matches your number and change into your towel or yukata. Leave your valuables in the locker! When you depart the sauna you must return your used towels and robes in the bag provided when you entered, so keep it in your locker. There are coin-operated snack machines and snack lounge on this level. Climb the stairs to 2/F for private western-style shower booths, non-private squat washing stations, steam, sauna room, and bathing pools of various temperatures. There are temporary wooden lockers that you can leave your towel in, but its better to carry it with or you might end up with someone else's wet towel. Also on this floor are three TV lounges, including one room for smokers that shows gay videos. The main lounge, with Japanese TV playing, is a good place to sit and watch the men going by (and watch them watching you). If someone likes you they may come and sit right next to you (Japanese are fairly direct if you match their type). On 3/F are 5 dimly lit "mix" rooms with futon and blankets (and tissue boxes) and a maze of cubicles and benches. You can sit in the hallway or maze and wait for an inviting glance, or lie down in the mix rooms and wait for someone to approach. B/F is a cruise area reserved for men under 40 (get a password from the reception desk) with two dim mazes. Please do not pester anyone, they will approach you if they are interested (often more than one at a time). There are additional rooms on higher floors when the place gets crowded on weekends, but you probably won't ever make it past 3/F anyway! Return your used towels and robes in the bag provided to the front desk and exchange your locker key for your shoe locker key. Step off the raised platform to put your shoes on. Nice mix of all ages and also foreigners from many countries. Although its primarily sticky mochi here, there are plenty of gaisen (foreigner-fanciers). They do sell safety supplies at reception.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "I was really dissapointed. The place is HUGE as described but, although it appeared tidy and clean, it was really smelly, particularly the linen on the beds and the carpet. Also, most of the guys there were older bears in their 40s-60s. B/F, where the young people like me supposedly hang out, was nearly empty the whole time. I went there for two consecutive nights on Mon (I stayed overnight) and Tue (only for a few hours) thinking maybe it would get better. I will try going on a weekend next time I'm in Osaka." -- cuinko, Aug 23, 2009

  "Hokuoukan is still THE sauna to go to! Doesn't matter what night of the week, or even time of year (was just there again in early Dec), this places rocks. Older or younger or whatever your race is, you'll find action sooner or later." -- spup, Dec 16, 2008

  "In my opinion Hokuoukan is a Must See for visitors to Japan." -- cramberrybog, Nov 18, 2008