TOKYO -- area code (81-3)

Suffering for more than a decade from Japan’s self-induced economic slump, Tokyo has seen much of its luster worn away by a recession seemingly without end. Art museums and performance spaces, once the crowning jewels of any serious department store, have turned into tired craft supply shops or now exhibit bins filled with last season’s unsold dishware. Once splendid designer boutiques openly hawk second-hand goods and hair scrunchies in sad sign-of-the-times sidewalk sales.

But there are also positive changes resulting from the flatlining economy. Bars are more mixed and friendly for foreign visitors (they need your business). English signage is now in common use, even on drink menus. With falling rental rates, savvy club owners have taken over neighboring venues, doubling or tripling the size of their once tiny establishments.

With prices having barely risen over the last dozen years, no tipping, no added taxes, and the dollar currently soaring against the yen, Tokyo is suddenly more affordable than New York, Paris or even Los Angeles! Taxis, once pure luxury rides -- with their lace doilies and white-gloved drivers who open the door for you -- have become a suddenly affordable, comfortable alternative to packed trains. Any tourist in their right mind should take advantage of this golden opportunity to discover the world wonders in the heart of this fascinating, and friendlier-than-ever Imperial city. Tokyo may never be this cheap again!

The population of Tokyo is over 8.2 million (that's about 330,000 Utopians).

• Lesbian listings
• Men in Tokyo message forum
• Tokyo Gay Scene Updates message forum
• Tokyo Journal
  Aside from being the monthly English-language guide to current events and life in the metropolis, they also list gay events and venues.

The updated and expanded 2nd Edition of the Utopia Guide to Japan surveys the gay and lesbian scene in 27 cities including Tokyo, Kyoto, Nagoya and Hiroshima. Listings include organizations, bars, discos, accommodations, spas, restaurants, and more. A special section highlights venues that are especially welcoming for women. Enjoy savvy comments and recommendations from local Utopians and gay travelers, as well as maps and addresses in Japanese. Click here to order

• AKTA
  2-15-13 Shinjuku Ni-Chome (see map), 3226-8998. This community center and gallery in the heart of Tokyo's gay district focuses on AIDS/HIV prevention and resources. Take the elevator to 3/F.
• Century Gay Student Union
  Email. GLBT student organization providing support and advocacy for Japanese-speaking gays, lesbians, bisexuals, transsexuals, transgenders, and hypergenders.
• Gay Men's Hotline
  3203-9885, Sat 19:00-22:00. Run by AIDS Care Project who also place safer sex kits around the bars.
• Lesbian and Gay Square Dance Club
  3299-5085. Beginners welcome, no costume required.
• The Tokyo International Lesbian & Gay Film Festival
  5-21-16 #601 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo 164-0001, 5380-5760 FAX 5380-5767, email. Organizers of this annual festival which has been running for more than a decade now.
• Tokyo Lesbian & Gay Parade
  Email.
  
  Click here for scenes from the 6th Annual Toyko Pride Parade.

  Scenes from the 2005 parade:

The Shinjuku Ni-Chome neighborhood is easy to navigate using our Utopia map:

Click here for Tokyo hotels and accommodations.

Click here for Tokyo bars and clubs.

Click here for Tokyo massage and spas for men.

• Facilities:
  • BYGS Building, Shinjuku Ni-Chome used to be cruise central, but now security has mounted cameras in all the facilities and cut peep holes in the bottom of the toilet stall doors!
  • Hibiya Park, facilities next to Police box
  • My City, Shinjuku Station, B/1 shops & B/2 parking garage
  • Shibuya Station, near exits
  • Shibuya Station, Tokyu Toyoko-Ten Department Store, all levels from train station to the roof
  • Shinjuku Station, East Exit inside ticket gate
  • Shinjuku Station, near JR ticketing office 1/F
  • Shinjuku Station, West Exit near ticket gate
  • Ueno Station, near exits
• Health Clubs:
  • Gold's Gym
    Gold's has opened not one, but two gyms in Harajuku/Omotesando and so gay gym queens have made a bee line for these new and high profile clubs.
  • Tipness
    Kichijoji Minami Machi 2-2-5, Musashino-shi, 243-3531.
  • Tipness
    5-7F Kaleido Bld, Nishi-Shinjuku 7-1, Shinjuku-ku, 3368-3531.
  • Tipness
    B/1 Pyramide Bld, Roppongi 6-6-9, Minato-ku, 5474-3531.
  • Tipness
    Nakano, near the Train Station. Very cruisy here in this neighborhood popular with gays.
  • Tipness
    4/F Big Ben Bld, Kitazawa 2-5-2, Setagaya-ku, Shimokitazawa, 3487-3531.
• Parks and Gardens:
  • Shinjuku Ni-Chome, small park in the heart of gay area. Some sex workers and lots of strange characters. Afternoon to late evenings.
  • Shinjuku Ni-Chome, small "garden" in B/1 BYGS Building
  • Sumida Park, at the river in Asakusa, fetish Japanese costume cruising and late evening action
• Sekai Kessaku Gekijo Theater
  2/F 2-13-6 Taito-ku, Ueno, 3831-0158. Infamous. Crowd is mature Japanese men looking for the same.
• Starbucks
  See map. Shinjuku San-Chome Starbucks is very cruisy due to its close proxity to the gay scene.

SHIBUYA, HARAJUKU
• Fujimamas (Asian and international fusion)
  6-3-2 Jingumae, Shibuya, 5485-2283. Housed inside a completely modernized traditional wood beam structure, this restaurant has all-foreign wait staff and therefore is a big novelty for Japanese diners. Many gays come here with friends. The food is mostly outstanding.
• Las Chicas
  Near Omotesando subway station. Fun restaurant, lively crowd, with many gays and lesbians. Favorite meeting place for activist lesbian gatherings.
• Mominoki House (vegetarian)
  Harajuku, 3405-9144. Billed as a "food concept house", offers delicious, all-vegetarian set meals, in an organic/commune type atmosphere.
• Tableaux (international)
  Sunroser Daikanyama B1d, 11-6 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku, 5489-2201, FAX 5489-2204, email. Gay-friendly. Healthy, flavorful dining of the highest quality in dramatic interior settings.

  SHINJUKU NI-CHOME, SAN-CHOME

  The easiest way to get to the gay area is to take the underground walkway from Shinjuku Station's East Exit (down one floor after the train exit ticket machines) to Exit C5, C6, or C8 (see map).

• Baan Kirao (Thai food)
  2-12-3 Shinjuku-ku (see map, next door to GB), 3352-1070.

  Kinkan Tei (noodles) 2-17-1 Shinjuku-ku (see map, next door to Lumiere bookshop), 3356-6556. Do not miss this late night noodle shop! Rustic decor and craftsmen furnishings. Specials are all in Japanese but try the Soba "sashimi", thinly sliced on ice; the puffed yama imo wrapped in seaweed; and the udon noodles with tempura cracklings. Opens late at night and slurping continues until early morning. The best!

• Cocolo
  1/F Daiichi Hayakawaya (see map), 2-14-6 Shinjuku Ni-Chome, 5366-9899. Popular gay and lesbian restaurant and art gallery. Gay-staffed. Reasonable prices. Always busy.
• Funabashiya (tempura)
  3-28-4 Shinjuku San-Chome, 3354-2751. Located mid way between Shinjuku Station and Ni-Chome, south of Shinjuku-dori. This famous restraurant specializes in tempura of all sorts. Sit at the counter and watch the flame-retardant chefs do their crispy business. Order a set (vegentables, shrimp, etc.) which comes with salad, rice, miso soup, and tea.
• La Boheme (Italian)
  1,2/F Cosmo Shinjuku-Gyoen Bld, 1-1-7 Shinjuku, 5366-2242, FAX 5366-2243, email. Shinjuku branch of the eatery mentioned above. Five minute walk from the Marunouchi Line Shinjuku-Gyoen Station, Exit 2-Ookidomon.

  Also, here's a great guide to restaurants around Ni-Chome: Shinjuku East Restaurants

  OTHER AREAS

• Kazu
  2/F Dai-Ni Kohei Bld, 3-34-22 Nakano, 3384-0423. Nice and friendly gay restaurant in Nakano (lots of gays live in this neighborhood as evidenced in the local Tipness Gym). Very good home cooking by owner Kazuhiko. A nice, drop-in feeling here.
• La Boheme (Italian)
  Maison De Soleil, 1-9-11 Ikejiri Setagaya-ku, 5486-3700, email. Funky-trendy atmosphere, big portions served family-style. A good place to bring your Japanese date. This area, unknown by tourists, is full of excellent eateries.
• Tha Chang (Thai food)
  3-27 Wakabacho (between Mami Mart and ENEOS), Kashiwa, Chiba, 04-7166-8900. Gay-owned "Thai resort style" restaurant in Chiba prefecture. 12 minutes walk from the east gate of Kashiwa JR Station. Popular among local Utopians. Reservations recommended. Open for lunch 11:30-15:00 and dinner 17:00-25:00.

Click here for Tokyo saunas for men.

SHINJUKU NI-CHOME, SAN-CHOME

• Books Rose
  See map (next to The Annex), email. Gay magazines, videos, pride gifts, toys, etc.
• Check
  See map. Next to Pandora. Gay video shop.
• Free Man
  See map. Used gay video store.
• Lumiere
  See map. Name is in Japanese, but this bookshop is an easy landmark to locate. Gay magazines, videos, pride gifts, toys, etc. Very busy and cruisy around this shop.
• Pandora
  See map. Next door to Check. Gay undergear, gifts, videos, etc.

  SHIBUYA, HARAJUKU

• Books Rose
  1-9-4 Shibuya-ku, 409-2993, email. Shibuya branch of this long-lived gay shop.