Guangzhou is a huge city, spread out along waterways that are lit at night by computerized laser and lighting shows. The pace of modernization has sped up in recent years, yet Guangzhou remains (for the time being) a treasure trove of traditional and period architecture, and a short walk off the beaten paths will reward the visitor with fascinating glimpses of the daily life of its 15 million residents (600,000 of whom are Utopians).

Shamian Island is a tiny parcel of land packed with European heritage buildings and garden parks. It's a great vantage point for the nightly public light show and an easy and fun stroll. Don't be surprised if you are asked, "Are you adopting a baby?" here, as this seems to be where China's unwanted children, primarily female, find new and loving parents. It also explains why there are so many baby clothes shops tucked in beside the art galleries and tea houses.

There is a lot to see and do in Guangzhou, so you won't run out of activities on an extended stay.

• Men in Guangzhou message forum
• Guangzhou Gay Scene Updates message forum

Comments from Utopians:

"Guangzhou is now a huge spawling modern commercial city. Pockets of the traditional Canton hang on in lanes and alleyways, but the recent spruce-up for the Asian Games transformed the whole city from top to bottom. Numerous coffee shops, boutiques and an extended subway system make this a tourist friendly place and the city authorities have, mercifully (so far at least), kept some of the charmimg 1920s art deco buildings which characterise Old Guangzhou and given them much needed fresh paint. Guangzhou also has a large population of Muslim and African traders. These handsome, masculine men inevitably include a few Utopian sympathisers and hanging out in the Arab coffee shops will at least give you interesting new friends, possibly much more. Watch your bag at all times in Guangzhou as thieves and pickpockets abound here and the subways are extremely crowded. Bring plenty of cash - prices in Guangzhou seem to go up every few months." -- JayCool, Feb 4, 2011

Click here for Guangzhou hotels and accommodations.

• Xiaozhou Village
  Way off the tourist circuit (at the moment) and difficult to find, but if you are a fan of traditional life and architecture, this small village of quaint canals and no cars has plenty of Ming Dynasty buildings preserved in their original state. You'll see clan halls, ancestral temples, wood carvings, craftsmen, locals playing mahjong by the winding tree-lined canals, and a home whose walls are made of oyster shells. There is even a village theater presenting Chinese operas in the evening. Artists have begun to relocate to this quiet haven and restoration and refurbishment for tourists is just beginning, so catch it soon before it becomes Disneyfied like so many of China's other famous water villages. Pay a local Y$20 (US$3) to give you a walking tour. Make sure your taxi knows the place or you'll never find it. About 35 minutes drive from downtown (under US$25 for the round-trip fair and waiting time). Ask your taxi driver to wait and take you back!

Click here for Guangzhou bars and clubs.

Click here for Guangzhou discos.

Comments from Utopians:

"Total Fitness on Zhonshan Qi Lu and Zhongshan Ba Lu are full of gay dudes. I go in the morning, afternoons and evenings depending on the day and always come across hot guys looking for fun. Be discreet, the locker room attendants are watchful. Zhongsan Lu Total Fitness at Ximenkou (Line 1) Metro Exit A is large and plenty of room to cruise guys. Zhongshan Ba Total Fitness is cramped and overcrowded, however it has a closed floor plan of showers/sauna/steam-room/showers hidden for fun." -- rocknorit, Aug 26, 2011

"Gyms in parks are no longer places to cruise in Gunagzhou. They have long since closed and been replaced by the usual western style fitness chains such as Total Fitness. There a well respected branch of Total Fitness on Zhongshan Lu, near the Ximenkou Subway Station, patronised by both gay and straight clientele. Be discreet." -- JayCool, Aug 23, 2011

Click here for Guangzhou massage and spas for men.

• 1/F facility in the big bookstore in the Sharp Bld. Chinese gays hang out looking for contacts. If you are reasonably discrete you can strike up conversations. A good place to meet middle class, educated gays. Subway stop there is Tiyu Xilu.
• CITIC Plaza, Tian-He District (the tallest building in Guangzhou), facilities on each floor of the shopping plaza.
• Eastern Place Residence (DongFeng GuangChang) swimming pool, 1 Dong Far St, 787 Dong Feng Dong Rd. Very clean outdoor swimming pool (Olympic size) in downtown. Check out the long-chair and shower when it is sunny. Good-looking PLU staff and customers. Mixed crowd. Be discreet.
• Intersection of Zhongshan 4th Rd and Cangbian RD.
• Ji Nian Tang (underground station).
• Pearl Riverside near White Swan Hotel.
• Shamian Tennis Court.
• There are a small number of Chinese PLU cruising each other in the lunch hour on the riverfront at Shamians near Lucy's restaurant. The facility there has gays popping in and out. Another facility is located near the foot of the overpass stairs on the other side of the main road which separates Shamian from the mainland. Take the small bridge over and walk left until you reach the last foot bridge that crosses the main road. The facility is on the left of the bottom of the stairs. A big traditional two-story Chinese style facility has little privacy but features a bit of come-hither flashing from the rough trade barrow guys and middle-aged tough guys from the local dried foods market on Qing Ping Lu. A different flavor here and all very keen to try western.

Comments from Utopians:

"Peoples Park is no longer a safe cruising area. The only participants are moneyboys and some unsavoury looking older patrons. The formerly gay section of the park is virtually empty now as the police prescence there has been increased tenfold. I had thought this was only for the Asian Games but it seems, sadly, that the authorities are determined to crush out this once charming aspect of gay life here. They patrol the park in small golf carts and have set up a watch tower/observation point in one of the old pavilions. What annoys me most about this zero tolerance attitude is that it is working class gays in China who are getting harrassed." -- JayCool, May 15, 2011

Tang Lee Food Art (Cantonese cuisine) Huasha Da Dao, Ru Yi Fang, Li Wan Hu Park, 8170-2228, 8181-8002. This charming lake restaurant inside a city park serves good local food. You can just point at pictures and prices are clearly listed. Sit indoors, on the terrace or balcony, or in one of their charming floating boats with your special someone. Lots of veggie dishes and the usual mystery meats. The pigeon was actually excellent (like mini, crispy duck).

• Starbucks in the street on the right hand side of Garden Hotel is popular with gays, including gay university students and gay Arab businessmen.
• Wilber's Bar and Restaurant (European)
  62 Zhusi Gang Rd, , +86-20-37611101, FAX , email. A renovated house turned into a brasserie with three floors of roomy dining and a barbeque terrace. The service is welcoming. They offer an eclectic menu of European cuisine. Great wine list and fabulous Martinis and Margaritas. A destination for gays and their friends. Open 5-11pm for dinner and until 3am at the bar. Gay-owned. 62 号 竹丝岗二马路

Comments from Utopians:

"Tried to visit Chung Mei Li Jian Mei Zhong Xin last week, but it is closed." -- yinghuantang, May 1, 2011

"The gay sauna scene still hasn't recovered from the police clean up surrounding the Asian Games, but a new place for wealthy gentlemen has opened up near Guangzhou East Railway Station. This may be one of the more interesting venues on the gay social circuit. Actually, it's a straight spa club and only about 5% of the patrons could be described as gay. You will need to use a lot of discretion here, but, if you want to look at naked straight guys swimming around in a large luxurious pool and recieve fairly standard massage and beauty treatments in good surroundings, this could be a relaxing visit for you. As you exit the subway at Guangzhou East (Line 1) a large hotel should be on the opposite side of the street (same side as Ikea). Stay on the station side and walk past the station staying on this side of the road. To your left, just after the station, you will see a large tower with one of those huge coldly glamorous lobbies the Chinese are fond of. The door staff will direct you to Number 9 Club on floors 4 to 7. This place has a male-only spa area and on another floor there are sleeping cabins. You travel in the lift in your pajamas. I have seen a small number gay guys here indulging in a little shower play. All showers have closable doors for privacy. In addition, several of the masseurs and attendants are definately Utopian sympathisers and appear willing to earn their tips. Entice and negotiate at your own risk. This may not be the most open place you will ever visit, down right closeted in fact, but, in terms of catching how the rich Chinese spend their money, you will never forget a trip here. It costs Y$110 for sauna, buffet and over night stay, tipping for services extra. Uniformed spa police patrol the corriders which may inhibit your activities." -- JayCool, Feb 5, 2011

"I found a new gay sauna called Guangzhou Yiange Xiu Xian, 157-1838-3112. Address: De Gao Sheng Wu Da Sha, Yi An Lu, Haizhu Dist. Take Metro stop at Shi Er Gong exit A, then find Yi An St. Walk about 15 minutes. Then find Gao Sheng Wu building and between two buildings find the stairs and go to 2/F. Look for a little park and at the end on the left side at the corner, you will see red lanterns. That is the place. Quite new, just open about two months. Karaoke room, steam, cabins and lockers. No dark room, but you can have a lot of fun in the steam room." -- potato_spicy, Nov 15, 2010

"Chao Ren Fitness Club was closed by the local government in July, 2010." -- yinghuantang, Sep 13, 2010

• Private Structure
  GZ Dynasty Mall. Sells sexy underwear for men.
• Tiku
  Fuquianlu 11 (northwest of Peoples Park). A small shop selling a good selection of intriguing underwear.