Vietnam's capital city is lively and full of charm. The diminutive old quarter is a canton of shady, tree-lined lanes with names like "Comb Street" that reflect the goods traditionally sold from its shophouses. In fact, virtually any patch of open street or sidewalk is turned into a place to sell anything or park a motor bike. Pedestrians are often forced to share the road with traffic in an intricate ballet that must be quickly mastered the moment you ease out of your hotel (don't dash!).

Hoan Kiem Lake sits at the hub of the old city, a jade mirror reflecting the French colonial facades and Chinese ornamentation that have both contributed to the city's heritage. The Opera House and classic Metropole Hotel are at one end and the old quarter and markets are at the other. For shopping, you might want to bring a calculator with you: Vietnam's instant millionaire Monopoly money is fun to play with but exhausting to manage.

While there are plenty of gays in Hanoi, most are cornered into marriage and raising a family, and they don't frequent public spots where they might be subject to gossip. This makes for a quiet gay scene at mostly mixed places. The Internet has become the primary method for educated, working gays to meet each other and foreigners. This shadowy life has also made gay tourists a target for scams and hustlers -- Hanoi is full of smiling, fresh faces that flirt for fun and are looking to seize any opportunity to rise up out of poverty. But local gays want you to know that criminal characters are in the minority, and you'll have a lovely time here if you just use your common sense and, again, don't dash into anything. We suggest you make some friendly contacts online before you arrive, rather than succumb to visions in Hanoi's romantic haze.

The metropolitan population of Hanoi is nearing 4 million (that's about 160,000 Utopians).

• Hanoi Gay Scene Updates message forum
  

Comments from Utopians:

"Hanoi Social Club at 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3938-2117, has a rainbow flag on the front door and Hanoi pride flags on display inside. You can also buy an educational book of real life stories by Vietnamese lesbians. It's owned by an Australian and very queer-friendly." -- J-Beau, Apr 28, 2013

HO CHI MINH CITY/SAIGON -- area code (84-8)

Ho Chi Minh City, called Saigon by the locals, is broad and breezy, tropical and easy-going, with just the right balance of urbanity and grittiness. The city center is filled with trees, parks and boulevards lined by heritage buildings. The European-flavored heart of Saigon stretches from the river to the Opera House along Dong Khoi St, and is lined with 5-star hotels, trendy coffee shops and fine dining. The city spreads out from there in all directions and keeps going - an interlocking puzzle of French colonial architecture, art deco streamline, mid-century googie, and geometric Colorforms tacked on everywhere. It's a café society, balancing hard work at multiple jobs with recliner chair-lined, al fresco drip coffee shops and alcohol-fueled eateries that are open and patronized round the clock.

Dining delights are plentiful and cheap. Shopping opportunities abound. Costs are very low and vacation budgets go a long, long way here. The best way to see the city is on the back of a motorcycle, but high quality taxi services are plentiful (ask your hotel which ones are reliable). Use your common sense to avoid scammers (like overfriendly Filipinos who accost you in high end shopping malls and tourist areas).

Click here for Saigon hotels and accommodations.

• Bread and Butter
  40/24 Bui Vien (off Pham Ngu Lao). A mix of friendly teachers. The chef is a lesbian, the food is good and the beer cheap.
• Quán Thúy Linh UTOPIA VERIFIED JUL 2012
  239/66A/66B Trần Văn Đang St, P. 11, Dist 3, Utopia Map, 090-643-2589, 093-368-3719. In operation for almost a decade, this homey, neighborhood resturant is unique because it is staffed by transgender waitresses. Friendly, relaxed atmosphere with a mix of diners including some gays and lesbians.