Everyone you meet in Beijing will tell you how much the city has changed in recent years. While not as radical as the space-age transformation of Shanghai, solemn Beijing is slowly re-furbishing its historical and cultural assets as it upgrades its infrastructure. The official "color" of Beijing, gray (!), is being blended with warmer pastels, and garden landscaping is optimistically employed to combat the pollution and dust. Even more changes are expected as the city prepares to host the Olympics, including a government campaign to eliminate swearing, spitting, and littering.

Population now exceeds 20 million (that's about 800,000 Utopians).

• LalaBar.com is a Chinese-language resource for lalas (lesbians).
• Women in Beijing message forum

• Les+ Magazine
  A free Chinese-language zine about the local lesbian scene. Available at women's spots in Beijing.

• BGLAD
  Beijing Gay, Lesbian, and Allies Discussion is for those belonging to or wishing to support the gay/lesbian/bi/trans community in Beijing. Multicultural and multisexual, their aim is to bring these individuals together in a safe space that is supportive, friendly, and really FUN. They meet every 1st and 3rd Sun of the month in Sanlitun and welcome non-Chinese to join in.
• Common Language
  Mail Box 63, Yayuncun Post Office, Beijing 100101, 6481-3064, email. Founded in 2005. A grassroots support group for lesbian and bisexual women. They run a lesbian hotline, host a weekly salon, and organize educational workshops and various cultural events such as lesbian film festivals and pride month celebrations. In addition they hold national workshops to aid queer women organizing and work wiht other women's groups and educators.

• Beijing Lala Salon
  Le Jazz Restaurant/Bar, 4/F Full Link Plaza, Chao Yang Men area, 135-0139-0576. Nearest subway stop is Chao Yang Men Station. Lala (lesbian) event every Sat afternoon from 2-6pm. Friendly space for chatting, sharing and support. Good for new comers to get to know people. Different topics for discussion and film showing each week. Local Chinese women from their mid 20's and above attend.
• Lang Man Man Wu (Full House)
  Dawang Lu, Xian Dai Cheng SOHO Building #2, Room #1804, 139-1077-0557. Stylish café JUST for Lesbians. Laid-back, intimate atmosphere with spacious interior, comfortable chairs, couches and private rooms. This cafe also offers a generous selection of drinks and snacks including an array of pasta's and rice. Open daily.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Thu is especially for the single lesbians out there who would like to meet one another." -- Lalala, Jan 9, 2007

• Feng Bar (Maple Bar)
  Pipe Cafe (100m east of the south gate of Worker's Stadium). Sat nights only. Beijing's longest running lesbian night. Loud music and dancing sometimes. Crowd is younger lesbians from late teens and early 20s. Good for young people to hang out with friends.
• Shan Mu Lan Bar
  3 Shajing Hutong, Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng Dist, 6403-7856.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Shan Mu Lan is a new bar for lalas decked deep in Xinjiang theme. The cool, luscious red sofas are so inviting that one can just sink into it and not move. The music is not too loud you can hold a decent conversation." -- singslave, May 1 , 2007

• Reggio Café/Bar
  Wu Dao Kou (200m south of the subway station), 8262-1516. Quiet place, good for chatting. Open nightly, but more lesbians on weekends.
• Shan Mu Lan (Annual Mercury)
  3 Shajing Hutong, South Luoguxiang, 6403-7856. A lesbian bar with exotic Xinjiang style decoration. Three floors with and open loft. Features Xinjing style rice and milk tea. Located in a preserved old hutong area, close to Houhai bar area, but less commercial.
• Wang You Ge (Forget About Worries!)
  Hou Hai bar area (20m south of Yin Dian Bridge), 6657-1931. Very small, but cozy and quiet. Open nightly.
• West Wing (Xixiangfang)
  Deshengham Tower, De Sheng Men on North 2nd Ring Rd, directions and map, 8208-2836. Beijing's biggest lesbian bar. Housed in a traditional grand city gate tower, with both courtyard and indoor seating. Sometimes karaoke, films, and dancing. Good place for women to hang out with friends. Serves glam cocktails. Mixed ages. Open nightly, but packed with on Fri.

• Destination
  7 Gongti Xi Lu (near the Workers' Stadium). If you are coming from other parts of Beijing and using the subway, get off at Dong Si Shi Tiao Station, choose the exit that takes you to Gong Ren Ti Yu Chang (Workers' Stadium), walk along Gong Ti Bei Lu, you should go past the Asia Hotel, then the indoor stadium (Ti Yu GUAN), turn right immediately into Gong Ti Xi Lu, and walk for a bit, Destination will be on your right next to a Thai restaurant. Friendly management and staff, cool sound and lighting system and dance floor. Thu women's night.

• Baby Face Spa
  Chao Yang District, 158-1120-6155, email. Lesbian-owned and specializing in outcall body massage for female customers. Their female masseurs are professionally trained, attractive, young and they guarantee satisfactory service. THEY WILL BE CLOSED DURING THE OLYMPICS PERIOD. Utopia Member Privileges.

• Bellagio
  6 Gongti Xu Lu, 6551-3533. A lesbian-friendly café with cute tomboy staff. Open 24-hours.

• Baby Blue Adult Shop
  268-91 Renmin Rd, FengTai Dist, email. Gay and lesbian-friendly shop providing high quality adult products at the reasonable prices. Baby Blue understands the private nature of such products and guarantees your privacy. Utopia Member Discount

GUANGZHOU (Guangdong Province)
-- area code (86-20)

• lesinguangzhou is an English-language network for women.

• Cave Café (mixed)
  Tian He, near the Garden Hotel. It's more or less an English pub with music and dancers. Some lesbian scene and the lapdancers dancing in a very hot way. Some of the gals here also seem to be interested in each other.
• Planet Bar
  Tianhe area, behind Teemall/Grandview Mall (south side, opposite side from the TianHe Sports Plaza, down the street with 7-11 on the corner). Go east behind Grandview till you get to the 7-11 and turn right. Planet is in the first building on your left, door is at the back. The bar is on 2/F, so you'll need to ring the buzzer. A girl's club. The young lady who runs it is very welcoming, helpful and speaks pretty good English.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "LouShang Bar in Guangzhou, the one in the TianHe Sports Centre area, is located on the street behind the TeeMall and go East at the 7-11." -- d, Nov 21, 2007

Guilin (Guangxi Province) -- area code (86-773)

Population is almost 1.5 million (that's about 60,000 Utopians).

• Lesbian Bar
  Map and directions. Near the Guilin Bravo Hotel along one of the lovely lakes that snake through the center of the city. Absolutely wild. The bar has about thirty tables, including some in a loft, as well as a small stage. Guests are mostly women, but there are a few men. The place plays upbeat Chinese and western pop music and they have shows that involve audience participation. The crowd and staff are very friendly.

Guiyang (Guizhou Province) -- area code (86-851)

Population is over 3 million (that's about 120,000 Utopians).

• Shang Xia Xian (Up/Down Line)
  Located in the the alley behind the Parkson's nearest to Pen Shui Chi on Zhonghua Lu (take a taxi or walk to "Long Gang Baisheng").

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Up/Down bar is still open and about 50/50 gay/lesbian!" -- suehiro, Jan 17, 2008

HANGZHOU (Zhejiang Province) -- area code (86-571)

Marco Polo passed through Hangzhou in the 13th century and called it one of the most splendid cities in the world. Today, Hangzou is a bustling lakeside resort popular with Chinese holiday makers. The enormous West Lake retains the romance of long ago, with misty vistas that seem to have been lifted from a painted scroll.

Population is 6 million (that's a quarter million Utopians).

• The Wine Shop
  1, 1, Tong Po Rd (Long Chang Lu), 701-0481. Take Tong Po Road, and about half way there's an alley called Long Chang. First shop on the left is the bar. Very friendly atmosphere, mostly students and young professionals. After midnight good singing parties. Owner and cute bartenders very helpful. Chinese speaking staff.

• He Cha Guan (tea house)
  77 Huai Min Rd (at the intersection of So Yan An South Rd), 8782-9711, 8782-9733. A modern tea house with traditional decor and booth seating with curtains that may be drawn for extra privacy. Try a variety of teas while you sample a strange selection of treats from a "tea buffet". A very cozy and relaxing place.

HONG KONG -- area code (852)

Population is over 6 million (that's a quarter million Utopians).
• Women in Hong Kong message forum

• HORIZONS
  GPO Box 6837, Hong Kong, 2815-9268 (Tues and Thu, 7:30-10:30pm), email. Hong Kong's comprehensive resource on gay and lesbian issues. Contact the HORIZONS counseling, support and information hotline for updated places around Hong Kong, including discos, saunas, bars, and latest activities organized by HORIZONS and other gay groups. Hiking group meets up at Exit G of Central MTR Station at 9:30am the second Sun of every month. Support Group counseling is held once a month to provide lesbigay people a casual and confidential environment to share difficulties they face as sexual minorities. Enrollment is necessary but all personal details are kept strictly confidential. To join, call (852) 9776-6479.
• Women Coalition of Hong Kong
  Email.
• Queer Sisters
  Hotline: 2314-4348 (Cantonese only), Page: 7112-8445 #1613, email. Feminist group formed in 1996 and making its presence felt serving the needs of lesbian and bisexual women now through its website.
• Women Coalition of Hong Kong
  PO Box 20467, Hennessy Road Post Office, Wanchai, 8103-0701, email. A Hongkong-based non profit-making, non-governmental organization, established on 1st July 2003. They defend the human rights of sexuality minorities facing discrimination due to their sexual orientation and/or gender identity. WCHK effects this mission through advocacy, documentation, public education, oral history, cultural development, AIDS education on WSW (women having sex with women) and hosting monthly gatherings for lesbian, bisexual women and transgenders.

• Club 64
  G/F 12-14 Wing Wah Lane, Central, 2523-2801. Mainly lesbian crowd.
• Home Entertainment Club
  18/F Circle Plaza, 499 Hennessy Rd, Causeway Bay, 2891-3266, email. Lesbian Pub and Karaoke.
• U-Turn Café & Bar
  3/F Cheung Hing Commercial Bld, 37-41 Cochrane St (above Dublin Jack Pub, next to the Central escalator, enter on Gage St), Central , 2851-1833, email. A fashionable, hot bar for gays and lesbians. Trendy music. A comfortable place for upscale locals to meet visitors. When it's your birthday, get a complimentary cake to share your happiness! Open Mon-Fri from 6pm-4am and Sat and holidays from 8pm till the wee hours.
• Virus
  6/F Allways Centre, 468 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, 2904-7207, 2904-7213 . Mostly lesbian crowd. 香港銅鑼灣謝菲道468號百達中心六樓

• Loft Bar De
  2/F 126-128 Lockhart Rd, Wanchai (above Hin Ho restaurant), 2866-3268.

• 1 Jordan Road
  A gathering place for DGS old girls to share our joy, sorrow or experiences freely. We can help each other with support through messages and chat. Old friends can get re-acquainted. New friendship may develop. Any interested old girls can visit to register. Bisexuals and friends are welcomed, too.

• Wako Japanese Yakinku Restaurant
  3/F, Jaffe Rd, Causeway Bay, email. A nice and quiet lesbian-managed restaurant.

JINAN (Shandong Province) -- area code (86-531)

Population is 5.5 million (that's over 200,000 Utopians).

• Landiao
  The club is situated in or near Fo Shan Jie St somewhere behind the Silver Plaza. The doors are painted bright orange and it is across the street from a hot pot restaurant. Bigger than Lanco. There's KTV, a show and a disco afterwards. The drinks are cheap enough and everyone seems to be enjoying themselves. It also seems to be a favorite with lesbians. Open till late.

NANJING (Jiangsu Province) -- area code (86-25)

Nanjing is just two and a half hours northwest of Shanghai by bullet train and its population is over 5 million (there are about 200,000 Utopians here). The city is clean and tidy, with major avenues graced by canopies of parasol shade trees imported from France. Lots of traditional architecture remains, including the Xuyuan Garden and Zhanyuan pleasure gardens. Even contemporary housing projects incorporate the local white wall and black tile style with geometric roof finials. Together with its large lake, winding river moat, and nearby Purple Golden Mountain park, Nanjing is harmonized with its surroundings. A former imperial capital, the city is rich in history, including the sad fate of hundreds of thousands of its citizens who died during the brutal Japanese invasion of China.

If you visit in late Feb, early Mar, don't miss Plum Blossom Hill, where thousands of pink and white plum trees bloom. During the annual Spring Festival, incorporating Chinese New Year, the Confucian Temple shopping area (Fuzi Miao) is decked out with auspicious red lanterns, large illuminated folk sculptures made from silk, and traditional folk toy vendors. Take an evening boat ride from the peer to view the charming, illuminated waterways. Most of Nanjing's gay bars are also just a short walk away.

Click here for Nanjing hotels and accommodations.

• Red Bar (Hong Ba)
  Beijing East Rd (in back of the well known Yosemite restaurant), 133-2781-1472. Red and black Chinese interior decor with red and green laser squiggles. Booths surrounding central table seating. Busy on the weekend. Weekdays you can sing karaoke. Weekend "model shows" and other activities. No English spoken, but you'll be welcome. Mostly younger gay crowd. Owned by a women, and there was even a group of lesbians there on the night we visited, but it's really more of a gay men's environment. Open daily.

• The Tequila Bar
  Disco with a friendly, mixed crowd. Many Asian gays and lesbians. Open very late on the weekends.

SHANGHAI -- area code (86-21)

It is evident everywhere just how cosmopolitan Shanghai was in the past and has become once again. Tree-lined boulevards and ornately designed merchant shop fronts are testament to its former prosperity and its hopeful future.

This is a city of contrasts--sleek skyscrapers rise next to dusty shophouses hoisting laundry out their windows; McDonalds, Pizza Hut and KFC have sprouted up on every block; peddle carts ply traditional sweets on the sidewalk in front of Cartier. Shanghai startles in its manic modernism. Neon-splashed Huai Hai Rd sports trend-setting world-class department stores, mega-restaurants, cathedral-sized banks and gleaming Metro stops. People's Park, with it's showcase museums, is a good spot to view the city's spaceport skyline, straight out of The Jetsons.

Shanghai appears to be run by youth, staffed by youth, and patronized by youth. The population now exceeds 20 million (that's about 800,000 Utopians). Nearly every gay you meet in China says they want to live here. The nightlife is constantly reinventing itself, but many venues have found consistent patronage from young, professional locals and expats. Shanghai has come to rival Hong Kong as the gay center of China as the winds of freedom continue to blow.

• Women in Shanghai message forum
• Email to join the LesInShanghai email forum and exchange info with other local and expat women living in Shanghai.

• Long Yang Club (LYC) Shanghai
  A social club designed for persons who value quality friendship and enjoy non-scene social activities. It is not just a male group; they also have sub-groups for lesbians and transgenders. They offer monthly functions such as sports, day trips, dinners/lunches, theater, and bowling events. Check the schedule on their website.
• ShanghaiLGBT
  Email. We are Shanghai's first group for lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgendered folks to meet and share information. With hundreds of members and events twice a month, it's a great way to meet new friends and catch up with what's going on in Shanghai.

Lesbian bar locations change rapidly in Shanghai. For updated information, log on to a Chinese lesbian chat room, such as lalaclub.net or lalachat.com.
• 200 - The L Word
  4/F 200 Tai Kang Lu (near Si Nan Lu), 6415-8695, 6472-3298. Sat ladies night.
• ERlingling
  200 Tai Kang Lu (Near Si Nan Lu), 6472-3298. This is a popular hangout for lalas (lesbians). Sat is lala night and it becomes the L-Word Club.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Erlingling translated in Zhongwen literally means '200'. It is a fusion club. Drinks are priced Y$30-60. Entry is Y$30." -- singslave, Jan 2, 2007

• F Lounge (mixed)
  5 Lane 448, Xinhua Rd (near Dingxi Lu), 5230-0368. Look for the pink sign. Convenient to the Crowne Plaza Hotel. A gay-friendly lounge. Staff are cute, but do not speak English. The place looks like a trendy New York Loft, with a huge main room and four big, modern party rooms. Reasonable prices. Popular with straight women and their friends.
• Eddy's Bar
  1877 Huaihai Zhong Lu (opposite Wu-Kang Mansion and next to the Hao De mini-mart on the corner of Tian Ping Rd), map and directions, 6282-0521, 136-6183-8797, email. Shanghai's longest operating gay club. World-class design (this could be New York, Milan or Paris) with red lighting, Chinese antiques and modern art. Friendly owners, Eddy and Michael, and their charming staff will make you feel instantly at home. Especially good music mix with world flavors and not loud enough to kill conversation. Crowd tends to be more mature, upscale, and a blend of locals, expats and visitors. Lesbians and women friends of gays are also welcome. Reasonably priced, cash only (no credit cards). 徐汇区淮海中路1877号（靠近天平路） Utopia Member Discount
• Frangipani Bar & Café
  399 Dagu Rd (near Shi Men Yi Rd), 5375-0084, email. A gay bar right in the city center, near the Nanjing West Rd subway station. Frangipani has a cozy and intimate environment. Their young and friendly waiters always give a very warm welcome. A perfect choice for a pre-party affair, private party, promotional launch or event. G/F is equipped with a large video screen. The bar stretches alongside tables at the entrance, creating a convivial party atmosphere. The loft is cozy and ideal for parties in a lounge style ambience. International crowd. Women, gay or not, are always welcome. Open daily from 6pm until the wee hours. Cash only. 黄浦区大沽路399号（成都北路和石门一路之间） Utopia Member Discount

• Embre
  832 Julu Lu (near Changshu Lu). A beautiful, lesbian-owned restaurant on three floors. Good menu and wine list. Outdoor and indoor seating.

SHENZHEN (Guangdong Province) -- area code (86-755)

Population is about 8 million (that's about 320,000 Utopians).

• Barden-Barden Disco Club
  2/F No. 2033 Hong Ling Middle Rd, (opposite Shenzhen Humanity Hospital), 8241-8028, 134-2428-8788, email. 10 minutes by taxi from Shenzhen Train Station. Gay-owned disco offering a warm, comfortable and friendly atmosphere. Hot dance mixes and shows nightly. Special events Fri-Sun. Karaoke 7:30pm-11pm, shows 11pm-12:30am, disco from 12:30am till late. Upscale crowd of local young professionals and visitors. Lesbians and women-friends of gay are also welcome. Free entrance. Cash only. 深圳紅岭中路2033號商場2樓(博愛医院對面) Utopia Member Discount

WUHAN (Hubei Province) -- area code (86-27)

Population is over 7 million (that's about 300,000 Utopians).

• Shaka Lounge Bar
  Shou Yi Yuan, #1 Shui Che Li, across from Languifang Wuchang, 130-1800-8234. Cozy new lesbian bar in Wuchang. Call first to check the hours. 武昌， 首义园， 水车里1号 （兰桂坊斜对面）
• Romantic Life
  3-4 Jiangtan Park, Hankou, 8278-9041. This is a lesbian friendly gay bar on the Yangzi riverside. Go earlier on Fri and Sat for a larger crowd. 浪漫一生 汉口江滩公园内3-4号

XIAMEN (Fujian Province) -- area code (86-592)

The population of Xiamen is over 1.3 million (that's over 50,000 Utopians).

• Nong Qing Gan Wan Jiu Ba
  G/F Da Tong Lu Xin Lu Jie (a small intersection in downtown Xiamen), directions and map, 869-1432, 135-9951-4790. This karaoke and disco bar is located in a blind alley, on the right side of the street. Many English songs for singing along. Lesbians are also welcome. Utopia Member Discount
• Xiamen Country Club (Xiang Chun Lie Che)
  2/F Fujing Dajie Yi Jie Dian Er Rd, directions and map, 251-8029, 0593-219-1169. A small, but cozy, place with karaoke. Some English songs are also available. Lesbians are welcome.

XIAN (Shaanxi Province) -- area code (86-29)

Xian (often spelled as Xi'an and pronounced "she ahn") was the ancient imperial capital of China for over 11 centuries. Much of this history remains buried, either literally -- in the dirt surrounding regal burial mounds which dot the rural countryside -- or amidst the sky-rise development that has swallowed much of the city. Yet Xian's public spaces and charming alleyways manage to appear more authentically "Chinese" than Beijing's grandiose plazas and avenues. The old Muslim Quarter is particularly colorful and worth exploring on foot. Yes, the air is smoggy, but so was Los Angeles up until the late 1980s.

The population is nearing 7 million (so about a quarter million Utopians live here).

Terracotta Comrades

Xian is home to 36 universities and a multitude of software colleges and companies. It's not surprising that local lesbians are Internet savvy.

• De Fa Chang
  Bell Tower Square, 721-4060, 721-4065. Inside the city walls, in the Chinese-style building opposite the Bell Tower Hotel. Cheap, delicious steamed dumplings (a family-sized portion for just a dollar!) in more than 180 varieties from folk style to royal court. Great view of the imposing Bell Tower. This is a good alternative if you worry about the lack of cleanliness at street-side restaurants. Second branch a little further down the street.
• Muslim Quarter.
  Try a bowl (or two) of Xian-style "paomoa" noodles in a delicious soup of tender beef strips and tiny chopped pieces of bread pancake. Fresh-grilled skewers of lamb and other delicacies are available everywhere.
• Xian Hotel Restaurant
  He Pin Rd, opposite the corner of the Hyatt Regency Hotel (this is a branch, not the one at Xian Hotel!). Large, cafeteria-style place where you can easily point and order from a huge selection of Shaanxi provincial cuisine. Great noodles, soups and other mystery dishes. One cart is filled with large glass jars that look like they were purloined from a biology lab, filled with medicinal (read: libido-enhancing) liquor infused with snakes, scorpions, and other intriguing ingredients.