Located on the coast, about halfway between Colombo and the spectacular heritage city of Galle, are two of the island's do-not-miss wonders: the garden estates of two of Sri Lanka's most famous gay luminaries, the Bawa brothers. Geoffrey Bawa is perhaps the nation's most famous modern architect, whose many projects combine both Ceylonese and colonial traditions with an environment-sensitive modernist flare (his former Colombo offices are open to the public in their current incarnation as The Gallery Café, see under Shops in Colombo).
• Brief
  +94 34-428-7056. While overshadowed by his brother's grand estate, Bevis Bawa's private pleasure gardens, dubbed Brief, are less sterile, more sensual, and filled with gay in-jokes at every turn. These gardens are the inspiration and model for the tropical landscaping craze visible everywhere now around Southeast Asia. Assisted by his live-in guest, gay Australian artist Donald Friend, Bevis filled his Eden with naughty and provocative sculptures and a huge collection of drawing, painting, sculpture and photography, including many male nudes, still on display (though sadly decaying), by some of Asia's most renowned artists. Enter through gates whose priapic bulges are, in fact, the noses of bearded masks (see drawing below). Turn a corner on your garden walk and a leering goat wearing a tri-cornered hat emerges from the flowering foliage. Through the moon gate is a plunge pool being filled in an endless arc from the waist of an athletic youth. Well-placed moss cleverly suggests body hair on well-hung torsos. An ornate full-length mirror is perfectly positioned to reflect the vista of the outdoor showers. Everywhere there is invention going on: from walls made from translucent glass bottles, monstera leaves pressed into wet plaster on roofs, handmade tiles, furniture, fabrics, glorious murals, life-size nude male lamps, on and on. Before Friend left for fame in Bali in the late 1960s, the modern Asian home and garden had been invented here.

  "The many sight-seeing heads
  who examined his floral beds
  tried to peek in his bedrooms too
  for more singular sights to view.
  One lady was heard to remark:
  ‘With such a luxuriant park
  you’d think he’s turn a new leaf,
  this unnatural Bawa of Brief!’

  -- from The Bawa of Brief by James Broughton

  

• Lunuganga
  +94 34-428-7056. Geoffrey Bawa's vast estate, gardens and lagoon are open for lunch (Sri Lankan cuisine), tea and guided tours by appointment.
  

COLOMBO / KOLAMBA -- area code (94-1)

Population is over 650,000 (that's about 26,000 Utopians).

• Lush (mixed)
  Gays frequent this happening night spot.

• Middle class, educated gays meet online, especially on GayRomeo, LankaLove, and ManJam.
• Colombo Fort
  Facilities in the CTB government bus stand and underground. Underground facilities in the Fort area on York St. If you are coming up York St from the Hilton it is across from the first corner of the Cargill's building (the old red brick building). Look for a stairway going down from the side walk with men's symbol. Plenty of guys just standing around looking for fun.
• Colombo Municipal Council Public Library
  Both facilities. Wait for an invitation. Best times: 9:30-10:30am, 1:30-3pm and 5-6:30pm.
• Fort underground public facility
  Mixed crowd, but basically anybody hanging back is looking for gay activity. You have to pay R$5-10 to the gatekeeper. All hours, but evening or afternoons around 3pm are ideal. Five minute's walk from the Galle Face Hotel.
• Hanging around outside the British Council where young Sri Lankan gays go to study English.
• Havelock Town
  Foot path next to the Isipatana grounds. You may need a friend to show you this location. After 6:30pm. This is a narrow path leading from one road to another but hardly used at that time because it's dark. You can see people walking and most of them are gay fun seekers.
• Majestic City Shopping Mall
  Galle Rd. Main lounge and facilities. Majestic City super market lobby area, 2/F and 3/F. Wait for an invitation. 10:30-11:30am, 2:30-3:30pm, and 6-7:15pm are busiest.
• Mount Lavinia Beach
  Very good location with several hot spots. Gays will signal. Best times are 6:30-9:30pm.

• Barefoot (contemporary international)
  See listing under Shops. Excellent food and service in a beautiful oasis.
• The Gallery Café (contemporary international)
  2 Alfred House Rd, 011-258-2162. Housed in the former offices of famous gay Sri Lankan architect, Geoffrey Bawa, this popular venue is a must-see, both for the tropical modern architecture and the for the rare chance to see a nude male photo by another famous gay Sri Lankan, Lionel Wendt, on display (sadly enough) in the men's room. Wendt, who died in 1944, was (among his many talents and interests) a pioneer of the modern male nude, celebrating his Sri Lankan subjects rather than focusing on western ideals of masculine beauty. Good food, though expensive by Sri Lankan standards. Excellent service.

• Barefoot
  706 Galle Rd, Colombo 3, 011-258-9305. All the best local arts, crafts, books, and colorful hand woven fabrics and fashions collected together in a charming heritage setting, in a compound including gallery and excellent restaurant.

Galle

Galle (pronounced "Gaul"), in the southern part of the island, is one of Asia's fantastic heritage destinations, yet is largely off the tourist path so you can still feel like you've made the discovery on your own. The Old Town and 16th century Fort are full of atmosphere and romance -- especially beautiful to walk around in the cool of the late afternoon -- filled with heritage colonial buildings and incredible art deco villas. The atmosphere is very relaxed and the people are friendly. There are plenty of shops and cafés in the Fort catering for a variety of tastes. Unsurprisingly, a number of longtime gay expats have chosen to retire in Galle. The beach of Unawatuna is also close by.

Click here for Galle hotels and accommodations.

• Take a stroll along the Fort wall at sunset to add to your collection of warm, tropical smiles.

• Ramparts Hotel
  Dining room on 1/F overlooking the ocean is perfect for a cheap meal and a beer, for lunch or dinner.

• Barefoot
  41 Pedlar St, +94 91-222-6299. Sister branch of the fantastic Colombo shopper's paradise. Pick up a colorful sarong for your evening promenade along the fort walls.

Kalutara

• Ayurmassagelanka
  71-604-9029, email. Gay-friendly. body-to-body massage, kerala type body massage and music therapy.

Kandy

Former royal city high in the verdant hills of central Sri Lanka.

The population of Kandy is over 100,000 (that's more than 4,000 Utopians).

• Kandy is a great place to see spectacularly attired male dancers and musicians performing a variety of Sri Lankan dance traditions.
  

• Temple of the Tooth
  Dress appropriately (long pants or skirts) for this sacred spot and UNESCO world heritage site, unless you want to rent an overpriced sarong.
  

• Around Kandy lake. Pass the boat house and walk towards Hotel Suisse. Gays hang out here and try to act discreetly.
• Railway tracks close to the public bus stand. 6:45pm-9:30pm. Be careful.

Negombo / Migamuwa -- area code (94-31)

Negombo, the only city in Sri Lanka with relaxed, everyday gay life, is a peaceful oceanside resort just 15 minutes drive north from Colombo's international airport. Budget airlines like Air Asia offer unbelievably low priced flights from hubs like Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok, making this an easy-breezy beach get-away. With tropical island pace of life, seaside dining and bars, extraordinarily friendly locals and gay-only resorts, its become a favorite holiday destination for jet-setting regional gays looking for a weekend retreat or long-stay holiday.

The population of Negombo is about 130,000 (that's over 5,000 Utopians).

Click here for Negombo hotels and accommodations.

• Rodeo Bar (mixed)
  Some gay patrons.
• Serendip (mixed)
  Beach disco bar with a DJ on Fri and Sat nights is the current hot spot (2011).

• Middle class, educated gays in Negombo meet online, especially on GayRomeo, LankaLove, and ManJam.
• Negombo Bus Terminal, after 7:30pm until late.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Just go a walk on the main street between Lords and King Coconut in the early evening. You will get a lot of young men who will want to start up a conversation. The rest is up to you. Also try the beach a night. It's very dark because there are no lights - that's what makes it fun." -- jamescanada, Aug 30, 2011

• Aria (international fine dining)
  25 St Anthony's Lane (in the alley leading to Gomez Place and Dickman Resort), 750-0770. The dining room at this tropical modern boutique hotel offers top notch fine dining in a relaxed, casual atmosphere (although the antlers and tusks are rather disconcerting and out of place with the rest of the breezy decor). Excellent service works hard to meet your special requests. Prices are reasonable. Try the traditional watalappan, a nearly black pudding made from coconut cream, cardamom, and jaggery (palm sugar).
• Bijou (Swiss cuisine)
  Great food and service. Very friendly owner and good prices.
• Dolce Vita (Italian Coffee shop)
  Portuhota Rd, Ettukala. Enter through the driveway beside the Sea-Sands Guesthouse. Gay-friendly. Good tiramusu, baked goods and gelato. Breezy terrace with a fantastic view right beside the beach. A perfect place to watch the sunset. Their crispy pizza is good. The cole slaw was, as the waiter warned, inedible.
• Jetwing Blue (Sri Lankan breakfast)
  Ethukale, 227-9000. If you want to try a large selection of traditional Sri Lankan food, splurge on the breakfast buffet at this gorgeous, Asian modern 4-star boutique hotel. Sit at your table with an unspoiled view of the best stretch of beach in Negombo, watching the colorful sails of the catamarans as fishermen set sail for the morning catch. Try the bowl-shaped "hoppers," a crispy fried pancake made from rice flour, add an egg, shaved coconut, spicy chutney or fragrant sambal to taste. Noodle-shaped hoppers make perfect nests for a variety of curries, lentils or dahls. Fresh tropical fruit and vegetable juices are chilling on ice. Crusty breads, Wood Apple jam, buffalo curd with a drizzle of treacle, banana and butter cake all make a perfect compliment for strong Ceylon breakfast tea.
• Lords (western and Sri Lankan)
  Portuhota Rd, Ettukala. Funky, arty open air restaurant with gallery. Western and Sri Lankan food served with popular Australian wines. Gay-owned.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "This is the most upscale restaurant in Negombo. The food is wonderful, but the highlight of Lords is the super cute staff. I always treat myself to at least two trips to Lords when I am in Negombo." -- jamescanada, Aug 30, 2011

  Comments from Utopians:

  "I went to King Coconut and found it wonderful. Get there early for a table facing the sea. I had a mixed seafood plate for about US$16. It was huge and loaded with giant prawns, lobster calamari and all sorts of other sea goodies. Very fresh and perfectly cooked. I returned a few days later for more of the same." -- anton888, Feb 1, 2012