KUALA LUMPUR -- area code (60-3)

KL is a modest little city on steroids, with muscular architectural monuments and traffic jams that feel out of proportion to its winding, tree lined streets and village-like neighborhoods. Colorful and chaotic, it retains a vitality that neighboring Singapore nearly polished away in its own efforts to become Asia's Tomorrowland. But it's KL that feels like a themepark in progress. Here, you may ramble through a traditional Malay kampong in the shadow of the show-stopping twin towers; or ride the cute monorail that offers first-time visitors vistas of both construction sites and destruction sites. Half of Chinatown has been turned into a uglified pedestrian mall that feels like anywhere but Chinatown, while old and crumbling heritage shophouses nearby that were (thankfully) overlooked by civic planners still house traditional businesses that ooze with charm of days gone by. Modern, yet hand-me-down; confident, yet uptight; Asian tiger, yet conservatively colonial; butch, yet nelly: KL is the fascinating love child of visionary nation-maker Dr. Mahathir and his Mr. Hyde ego.

Gay life in the capitol is widespread and surprisingly sophisticated, but still largely underground due to lingering antique British colonial law and Islamic disapproval. Many gay businesses have morphed into creative hybrids to remain "within the pale": yogatoriums, aerobisaunas, massageaurants or spaversities with darkgyms and karaocuzzis. Mainstream businesses now openly cultivate gay and lesbian customers who loyally dispense pink ringgit at the growing number of mixed venues that welcome them. Gay or lesbian nights at straight clubs are common. And, of course, the Internet is the medium of choice for the discreet and closeted.

The population of Kuala Lumpur is about 1.5 million people (that's 60,000 Utopians just in the city proper). The Klang Valley, incorporating KL, Petaling Jaya, Subang Jaya, Putrajaya and Cyberjaya has a combined population of over 4 million (for a grand total of more than 160,000. Utopians).

• Questions about AIDS/HIV care? Current medical treatment offers a normal lifespan for those living with HIV. A Harvard-trained Physician and Infectious Disease expert in Kuala Lumpur offers compassion and strictly confidential advice about health matters and state-of-the-art HIV treatment. Email the Doctor with your questions.
• Kuala Lumpur Gay Scene Updates message forum
• Lesbian listings
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The updated and expanded 2nd Edition of the Utopia Guide to Malaysia surveys the gay and lesbian scene in 17 cities. Listings include gay scene maps, organizations, bars, discos, spas, accommodations, restaurants, and more. A special section highlights venues that are especially welcoming for women. Click here to order

Comments from Utopians:

"In the last couple of years, the KL gay scene has witnessed quite a prolific and intense swell of activity led by a fast-learning commercial sector quick at the heels of the pink dollar. Newly tolerant and entrepreneurial Singapore has been a welcome contributor into the education of the Malaysian general public that gays help fuel economics and keep the retail/fashion/hospitality industries buzzing. Eager Malaysians, albeit discreet, are not to be outdone - resulting in a pronounced catering to the gay community and all the ringgit that accompanies it. Today in KL, one is rarely hard-pressed to detail lists of restaurants, bars and retail outlets that outwardly pander to the tastes and pleasures of Malaysia's thriving rainbow community. Whilst admittedly we cannot be as brazen and bold as our western counterparts when promoting gay entertainment and activities, we're certainly more liberal than some Asian countries in supporting gay life. As a result, over the last two years we've had the pleasure of experiencing the flowering of outlets and places which travelers might also find of interest." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008

• Flexqstudio
  89-3 Jln 1/91, Taman Shamelin Perkasa, Cheras, 017-618-6510, 012-683-7531, email. Photography for fashion, personal and couples makeover, advertising and commercials, model portfolios, magazine and CD covers, artistic shots. Open daily. Utopia Member Discount
• Lightworks Books, Cafe & Yoga
  19 Jln Mesui (see map, off Jln Nagasari), 2143-2966, FAX 2143-2977, email. Lightworks is a gay and lesbian-friendly holistic center offering yoga classes, holistic therapies (Angel and Tarot card reading, crystal healing, spiritual response therapy, etc), plus Reiki and energy healing. Their shop also features a comprehensive selection of spiritual, gay and lesbian support books, meditation/instrumental CDs, essences and crystals. The cafe offers wholesome fare for health conscious eaters. It's a great chillout location just a few streets away from bustling Bukit Bintang where you can relax and freely be who you are. Lightworks is strictly non-denominational. Utopia Member Discount

BUKIT BINTANG / CITY CENTER

Bukit Bintang is jammed with bustling shopping centers, restaurants and many of KL's popular hotels which are right in the center of the action. The neighborhood is easy to navigate using our Utopia map:

Click here for Kuala Lumpur hotels and accommodations.

• Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia
  Jln Lembah Perdana, 2274-2020. This private museum is probably the most beautiful museum in the capital. With superb collections of architecture, calligraphy, jewelry, textiles, ceramics, metalwork and more, all housed in state-of-the-art displays with excellent English language translations. Particularly appealing are scale models of famous mosques and actual lifesize rooms displaying the height of Islamic artistry from around the world. Excellent lunch served with top quality traditional ethnic foods prepared by the Museum's Egyptian chef. The museum shop is tremendous as well. All of this is housed in a beautiful building filled with natural light and a thoroughly modern interpretation of classical Islamic architectural motifs.

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• Kinokuniya
  KLCC. Some LGBT literature on their shelves udner Gender Studies.

Click here for Kuala Lumpur cabaret.

Click here for Kuala Lumpur discos.

• California Fitness
  3/F Lot T-011, Midvalley Megamall, Mid Valley City, 2284-3833. Cruisy gym for serious work-outs. Be discreet.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Was in the gym in IOI and after that went to their sauna/steam room. It's nice anytime of the day! Work out and be worked out...that should be the tag line!" -- papabear69, Nov 27, 2008

  "Energy Fitness Studio, 7880-3805, is about a year old. The gym is located in the convenient Dataran Glomac area, which is directly behind Giant Mall in Kelana Jaya. Parking is plentiful and free. Though quite small, the gym spans two floors - 1/F for classes and 2/F for equipment and cardio machines. Tasteful decor with plasma TVs. The place is clean and has a comfortable, tidy feel. The reception area is manned by two muscular chaps who will greet you cheerfully. The shower rooms are very nicely done. They intend to expand to a 3rd floor in the future." -- badinc, Aug 1, 2008

Click here for Kuala Lumpur karaoke.

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BUKIT BINTANG / KL CITY CENTER
• Bintang Walk
  See map. The whole of Jln Bukit Bintang, starting off at the Pavilion luxury shopping mall right up to Lot 10 and Jln Alor's hawker food street, is KL's major cruising area. Outdoor cafés have sprouted all along this route. Appropriately nicknamed "The Catwalk", it sees a steady stream of gays throughout the day and especially in the evenings. Hook-ups even happen on the traffic islands!
• Shopping malls
  • KL Plaza
    Bukit Bintang (see map). From The Coffee Bean to the facilities.
  • Low Yat Plaza
    Bukit Bintang (see map). This IT mall is buzzing with young computer nerds. Yum!
  • Pavilion
    Bukit Bintang (see map). Brand kings and label queens have migrated to KL's most luxurious high-end mall.
  • Starhill Gallery
    This high-end branded goods mall has gays around, natch, especially the higher floors.
  • Sungei Wang Plaza
    Bukit Bintang (see map). Top floor, near the Reliance. Beware of pickpockets.

  
  CENTRAL MARKET / CHINATOWN / PUDURAYA

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Central Market facilities are being monitored by the Malay security men all the time. Three guys got busted today at the Annexe Gallery G/F facilities. I was told that they only held them for questioning and after a stern warning, let them go. Their faces were photographed and IDs photocopied. You never know who's who because the security wear plain clothes. So guys, if you want to play, find a private and safe place." -- Fip, Mar 3, 2009

  
  CHERAS

• Cheras shopping mall facilities

  
  PETALING JAYA

• AmCorp Mall -- G/F and 1/F facilities

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Still can see a small number of gays here." -- spp_88, Feb 1, 2009

• R&R facilities, next to LDP (before the Sunway toll to Puchong, next to McD) is a cruisy place especially 5-9pm. OTHER AREAS

• Basketball court park
  Jln BP 1/5, Bandar Bukit Puchong, Puchong District. A cruising place for many young and old gays at night. Normally more vehicles come in after 10pm and men will have a walk in the park where they search for others. Crowd is mostly Malay/Chinese, and sometimes Caucasians. The local residents know about it but they are quite OK as long as you keep your voice down while cruising and move the fun to another location once you've connected.
• Between the old Subang International airport and Petaling Jaya. About 8km from KL City Center. Behind the Kelana Jaya Stadium, by the lake, very cruisy with more upscale locals. Malays, Chinese and few Indians. After dark till very late.
• Railway Station Park, after dark.
  Transgenders come here to meet their friends or to make new friends. Nice mixed crowd.
• Shopping malls
  • Aquaria KL
    Leading to the underground passage to KLCC, the facility there is a meeting place, especially after work.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Surprised to find peep holes in Bangsar SC facilities, especially G/F, with busy activities in the early evening." -- ditto, Jun 16, 2008

• Swimming Pools
  • MPPJ pool, Kelana Jaya
    Great for cruising, especially the bathing area. A mixed crowd of young hunks to older chubs.

    Comments from Utopians:

    "You can see loads of (mostly Chinese) guys lounging by/swimming in the pool in nothing but their thongs/g-strings. Yum! Yum!" -- , Nov 23, 2008

• Qing Woo Stadium pool, about 15 minutes walk from Chinatown. More gays after 5pm.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "The RnR at the LDP Toll from Damansara to Puchong (the one with the dine-in/drive-thru MacD) is no longer safe. Once a great cruise spot, it now has undercover cops wandering around dark areas luring victims by rubbing themselves and when an innocent guy shows interest and approaches, the police get him." -- c-va, Jan 31, 2009

  "The facilities in Wisma Rampai in Sri Rampai are quite cruisy. These are facilities are within the office building, quite safe and not many people." -- foxmulder, Jan 22, 2009

  "Recently gays in Klang have become more pro-active. The hottest gay location is now the Pandamaran swimming pool complex. It's a new hub after Kelana Jaya Swimming pool. Mon-Fri after 7:30pm in the shower room, Sat and Sun after 7pm. Don't feel shy to get naked. Have fun." -- jerry_lust4u, Aug 20, 2008

BUKIT BINTANG / KL CITY CENTER

69 Bistro 14 Jln Kampung Dollah (see map, beside Berjaya Times Square), 2144-3369, email. This gay-owned restaurant is a living tribute to the pop 60s with its mod prints, retro-flavored furniture, vintage fabrics and several antique pieces. Horoscope and tarot card readings available daily. Utopia Member Discount

• Café Café (European fine dining)
  175 Jln Maharajalela (a short cab ride from Bukit Bintang), 2141-8141. Gay-managed and staffed, with European styling and lots of gay and lesbian guests. Decor is high-drama with operatic curtains and a ceiling dripping with glittering crystals, yet the environment feels homey at the same time, like a well-worn Parisian artists' café. They serve both set meals and a la carte dishes. Standards are high. The charming male staff are handsomely appointed and attentive, but not over-the-top. Prices are very reasonable by international standards. Well-stocked wine list. They also serve tea in the afternoons. The perfect place for a romantic date.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "French decor and food, excellent value and superb quality." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008

• The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf
  Front entrance of KL Plaza (see map). Another gay hang-out.
• Coffee Klub
  Plaza Berjaya, Jln Imbi. Coffee specialties, and snacks like satés and noodles. Owner welcomes all PLUs, especially chubs and their admirers.
• Dome Café
  G/F Lot 10, at the corner of Bukit Bintang and Jln Sultan Ismail (see map), 2144-3001. The gay crowd hangs here on weekends or on weekday evenings. The food is standard but the location offers lots of eye candy. Have a cuppa here and cruise the gay area's major intersection.
• Green Lotus Café (Thai and Asian)
  30-38 Jln Walter Grenier, 2141-3007. This gay-friendly restaurant is filled with visual and taste treats. Thai decor blends with modern Asian design. The food is delicious and there are always tables of gays, couples and friends enjoying the ambience, cuisine and attentive service from the cute staff.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "The food was marvelous. The environment was good and its gay-friendly management is extremely welcoming." -- c-va, Jan 28, 2009

• Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia (Muslim cuisine)
  Jln Lembah Perdana, 2274-2020. See listing under Attractions. Excellent lunch served with top quality traditional ethnic foods prepared by the Museum's Egyptian chef.
• Lecka Lecka
  Look for the large licking red lips on the sidewalk outside KL Plaza (see map). This al fresco café serves up gelato and a nice dose of chill-out music. Sit on the cushy red seats set amidst twinkling candles to watch the nightly parade of passersby. Open and hopping until the wee hours.
• Palate Palette Restaurant & Bar (international)
  21 Jln Mesui (see map, off Jln Nagasari), 2142-2148, 012-226-1237, FAX 2143-2148, email. This funky and colorful two-storey restaurant and bar is secretly tucked away between Changkat Bukit Bintang and Jln Raja Chulan. The inventive menu is packed with playful delights like "chicken lollipops" and "deconstructed carrot cake." Dine, drink or snooze (their garden patio was voted one of KL's best places to take a nap!) surrounded by quirky furniture and artful murals. Gay and lesbian-friendly. Closed Mon. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Good, mixed crowd. A great place for a drink." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008

• Starbucks
  Pavilion food alley (see map). Cruisius maximus!

  
  CENTRAL MARKET / CHINATOWN / PUDURAYA

• Be My Friend Café next to the cinema in the Central Market.

  
  CHERAS

• BJBS Café
  G/F 115 Jl 3/93, Taman Miharja Cheras. This cafe is a meeting and cruising point for local PLUs. Nice, friendly environment.

  
  CHOW KIT

• AJ (Malay traditional cuisine)
  50 Jln Lumut (off Jln Ipoh, not far from OTOT² sauna), 4044-8888, email. Dynamic duo, AJ and Ryu, are the super-Daddy couple who run this colorful and tasty restaurant. The decor is bright and bubbly, showcasing their collection of bears, Swatch watches, and Japanese beckoning cats. Retro Malay pop music accents the huge buffet spread of outstanding home-made traditional Malay curries, veggies, and specialties which you heap onto a plate of rice. Try the durian and barley porridge or the bananas in coconut cream for dessert.

  
  PETALING JAYA

• Restaurant Syed
  Kelana Jaya. Located along the same row as Giant Supermarket. Open 24 hours and cruising is best from 10pm till late morning. Gay-friendly, safe and the place to be out and seen. The crowd ranges from 18-40.

  
  OTHER AREAS

• 69 Bistro
  G/F E-111 Metropolitan Square, Bandar Damansara, Perdana, Selangor, Petaling Jaya (same building as Citibank), 7722-4428, email. Second branch of this gay-owned restaurant. Pop 60s decor, retro-flavored furniture, vintage fabrics and several antique pieces. Utopia Member Discount
• Old Kawan Kopitiam
  12G 10/116B Kuchai Entrepreneur Park, Kuchai Lama, 03-7981-8961, email. Gay-owned Old Kawan Kopitiam is a cozy place for PLUs and their friends. They serve vegetarian foods, pork-free Asian fare. Free Wi-Fi. In-house games. Special areas for pets and smokers. Economic prices. They also cater for theme parties or functions. Utopia Member Discount
• Rahsia Bistro & Wine Bar (Penang-Nyonya and international)
  13 Jln Damai, (off Jln Aman/Tun Razak, near Crown Princess Hotel/Empire Tower), 2142-5555, 2142-0059, email. Rahsia feels like a well-kept secret (the name means "secret" in Malay). This gorgeous hideaway is housed in a converted garden bungalow surrounded by nature, yet with a twinkling backdrop of city lights rising into the sky beyond. The ambience is invigoratingly peaceful, yet stylish: ethnic charm meets cosmopolitan chic. The menu offers an eclectic mix of contemporary Asian and nouveau international cuisine, plus fine wines to enjoy in their private, but friendly, atmosphere. Music is an eclectic blend of jazz, gamelan and a bit of Bowie thrown in for good measure. Closed Sun. Utopia Member Discount
• Rebung
  4-2 Lorong Maarof, Bangsar Park, 2283-2119. This friendly, rainbow-hued restaurant is a great place to sample traditional Malay food. Celebrity Chef Ismail and staff prepare a huge buffet of local dishes and sweet treats. Spice-lovers will be happy to know that these are authentic dishes that don't shy away from the satisfying, sweat-inducing heat of chilies (there are mild dishes as well if you are a pepper-phobe). Lots of celebs and trendy locals as well as down-home folks who just love the local flavors. Live Malay music outside.
• San Francisco Coffee
  G21, G/F Lot 10 (see map), Jln Sultan Ismail, 8889-2732. A nice place to hang out with friends for their famous coffee and some pasta to boot.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "If you're into Indian vegetarian cuisine try Annalakshmi at 116 Jln berhala, Brickfields (see their website for map). There's no set prices on the food. You eat and pay as much as you want. The earnings of go fully to charity. The environment is very cosy, the waiters very friendly and the food is awesome. Plus, you can catch many, many cute gay guys working here as waiters." -- c-va, Jan 31, 2009

  "Just found a new place to hang out in Kuchai Entreprenuer Park call Old Kawan Café. Nice environment and very reasonable prices. The place is in a busy entertainment area with lots of pubs and you can see a lot of great looking people passing by. Free Wi-fi available. The food is great. The staff are good and gay and lesbian-friendly." -- monkeydavid, Jan 26, 2009

  "Banquet in Bangsar Village 2 has the same gay owners who started Café Café. Essentially a mixed crowd, but not short on gay clientelle. Nero Vivo is an Italian place with a mixed crowd not lacking in gays. Alexis at The Gardens, Mid Valley has a mixed crowd, but has long been a favourite for gays for its great food, vast selection of wines and to-die-for desserts." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008

Click here for Kuala Lumpur saunas for men.

BUKIT BINTANG / KL CITY CENTER
• Ranz Hair and MakeUp Studio and Academy
  201A Jln Imbi (see map), 016-674-2360, email. Located opposite the Ritz Carlton Hotel. A gay-owned academy offering professional courses for hairdressing and make-up. Four-month professional hairdressing or make-up courses with certificate given after completion. Friendly environment. Utopia Member Discount

  
  CHERAS

• Matahari
  11-1 Menara Belfield, 77 Jln Talala (near Kakiku), Utopia Map, 012-231-3152, email. Indoor tanning and nail salon with lots of gay clientele.

  
  OTHER AREAS

• Boydgirl
  22 Jln Kuchai Maju 6, Kuchai Entreprenuer Park, 017-223-1298, email. Hair cut, treament, color, aromatherapy, facial, ear cleaning and more. Gay-owned. Utopia Member Discount
• The Healing Touch
  Block B6-09-01, Pandan Mewah Heights (next to Pandan Indah), Jln Pandan Mewah, Pandan Mewah, Selangor, appointments: 012-399-4288, email. Gay-friendly reiki energy healing for relaxation and health. Reiki is a Japanese form of qi or chi energy healing. It is a touch-therapy which entails the (non-sexual) laying of hands on the front and back of the body, through which energy is transferred. The Reiki therapy is very relaxing, energizing and refreshing. It is also very good for improving one's vitality. In or outcall. Strictly professional service. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Small DVD shop next to Blue Boy has high quality DVDs that you can choose by looking thru a mobile phone screen. Also, Plaza Damas upstairs opposite Starbucks (but you need to know people to get in). Private Structure at Bangsar Village 2 is a Malaysian-owned undergear shop with great designs. Philosophy is gay owned, with interesting clothes and a good selection of swimwear. Club Monaco at at The Gardens, Mid Valley offers high fashion and trendy clothes." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008