BALI -- area code (62-361)

The Balinese are Hindu/animist, unlike the rest of predominantly Muslim Indonesia. They are self-assured, genuinely friendly, curious, and always make time to chat. Some of your most memorable experiences will come from warm interaction with local folk. Everyone here seems to be an artist of some kind and daily offerings and rituals are a way of life. While men and women no longer wander about in innocent nakedness, you will certainly encounter unselfconsciousness at the morning and evening bathing hours at rivers, pools, and public baths (Balinese become invisible when they slip out of their sarong).

While Bali may be one of the most tolerant and gay-friendly destinations on the planet, you will not find much in the way of open gay lifestyle except in the touristic Kuta/Legian area. Open gays you encounter will usually come from neighboring islands. Many Balinese mythical figures celebrated in music and dance have androgynous characteristics. That, together with the high visibility of many gay visitors to the island and a quiet acceptance among the indigenous communities, mean that most Balinese are aware of homosexuality. However, for Balinese, marriage and the union of opposite genders is a requirement for their full participation in village life. That said, homosexuality is certainly not a serious matter or one requiring a moral judgement. Interestingly, murals in The Hall of Justice in the Taman Gili, which luridly depict the punishments of hell, represent a wide range of sins from incest and bestiality to gossiping and farting -- but no proscriptions against homosexuality are recorded.

Not surprisingly, Bali has been a famous haven for homosexuals, and a number of its renowned foreign residents lead comfortable, open lives here. Respected artists like Rudolf Bonnet, Donald Friend and, most famously, Walter Spies, all contributed to the thriving cultural synthesis that is Bali today. The spectacular kecak monkey chant, perceived by millions of tourists as a glimpse back in time to the "real" Bali, was actually re-choreographed by Spies, who combined several languishing performance traditions, increased the number of male performers, stripped them to loincloths, and set them in a circle around a central fire light.

On the topic of sex, it needs to be said that the Balinese are not especially given to going out and having a few drinks at a bar and getting picked up. These are people who believe you can go into full-fledged demonic possession at the sound of a gong, and being drunk is not a happy feeling for them. On the other hand, they are not shy about physical contact between people of the same gender. Friendly encounters may lead to a chance to get better acquainted, but you are likely to be disappointed if you arrive with the expectation of finding a holiday boyfriend. Knowing a little Indonesian, and the gentle art of teasing and flirting, will go a long way towards making friends.

The population of Bali is about 2.5 million (that's 100,000 Utopians).

• Bali Gay Scene Updates message forum
• Men in Bali message forum
• Travel in Bali message forum

The updated and expanded 2nd Edition of the Utopia Guide to Indonesia surveys the gay and lesbian scene in 43 cities. Listings include organizations, bars, discos, spas, accommodations, restaurants, and more. A special section highlights venues that are especially welcoming for women. Click here to order

Comments from Utopians:

"MANY PEOPLE AROUND THE WORLD HAVE VISITED THE ISLAND OF BALI -- SOME EVEN NAME IT 'THE ISLAND OF THE GODS' (IN MY CASE, I SAY 'GODDESS') AND IT IS DEFINITELY CONSIDERED THE SAFEST PLACE TO VISIT IN INDONESIA (SAFER THAN OUR CAPITAL CITY OF JAKARTA, SINCE THE UNHAPPY POLITICAL TURMOIL IN 1998). NONETHELESS, EVERYTHING HAS CALMED DOWN PEACEFULLY AND IT’S TIME FOR ME TO PROMOTE MY COUNTRY AGAIN, ESPECIALLY THE BEAUTIFUL ISLAND OF BALI. DON’T FORGET TO GRAB THE FREE MAGAZINE, 'THE BEAT', AS IT WILL TELL YOU WHERE TO EAT, WHERE TO SHOP AND WHERE TO GO TO PARTY EACH NIGHT (A GOOD HINT FOR YOU ONLY...TO LOCATE A 'G' PLACE IN THE MAGAZINE , IT’LL BE UNDER THE HEADLINE 'ALTERNATIVE LIFE-STYLE'-- THAT MEANS IT IS A PLACE FOR US 'PARA HEMONG' ONLY !). YES, DANCING GOES ALL NIGHT LONG TILL EARLY MORNING HOURS. INDEED BALI LIVES UP TO ITS EXOTIC NAME, NOT TO MENTION THE BALINESE MEN -- I WOULDN’T CALL THEM VERY MACHO, BUT MANLY ENOUGH TO MAKE YOUR STAY A PLEASANT AND MEMORABLE ONE. ENJOYYY!" -- Santo, May 1, 2004

• Balispirit.com
  44 Jln Hanoman, Ubud, (62-361) 970-992, email. A centralized registry of Bali's holistic venues including accommodations, healthy foods, yoga and meditation retreats, health and spas. Gay and lesbian-friendly, Earth-friendly, socially responsible and health-mind-body conscious. Utopia Member Discount
• Lovina Real Estate
  Email. A small, proficient, dedicated team of professionals with western real estate knowledge and a close-knit crew of locals that are familiar with Lovina and the areas beyond. They also sport the rainbow flag and promote HIV awareness.

• A Gay Men's Discussion Group has been formed in Bali and welcomes men of all ages and nationalities. Confidentiality is assured. Call (082) 836-0951 for enquiries.
• Bali Gay and Lesbian Business Association (BGLBA)
  Email. The BGLBA was created to provide a positive and dynamic environment in which to expand social and business interactions among its members and provide information and assistance to visitors.
• Gaya Dewata, Bali Gay Association
  132 Jln Suli, Denpasar, 234-525. Mr. Ketut and his assistants can be a resource for locals and visitors. They also organize once-a-week volleyball games on Sat or Sun (call for details) for transgenders that's lots of fun.

• AquaMarine Diving - Bali
  Jln Raya Seminyak 2A, Kuta-Seminyak, 730-107, FAX 735-368, email. Gay-friendly dive specialists and Bali's only British owned and managed dive company, PADI R-6344. They offer day trips and custom-made diving and accommodation packages to Bali's best dive sites. They also offer PADI courses and introductory diving programs. See their website for full information on Bali's dive sites. Utopia Member Discount
• Bali Discovery Tours
  P.O. Box 3581, Denpasar, 286-283, FAX 286-284, email. Without a doubt one of Bali's very best and gay-friendliest family of travel experts. Accommodation, tours, activities and transportation services. Great rates and ready suggestions for gay-friendly holidays in Bali. Specialists in arts and culture, the offbeat, the spiritual and the less-touristed. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Our guide was very knowledgeable of Bali, its traditions, customs, history, and very accommodating of our interests." -- Fernando, Mar 15, 2006

• Bali Driver
  61 Jln Ratna, 862-7457, 0813-5308-5225, email. Gay and lesbian-friendly English speaking driver, specializing in open road, customized tours for individuals or couples. Utopia Member Discount
• Bali Friendly
  28 Jln Nakula, Seminyak, Kuta, 730-326, FAX 730-326, email. Gay-owned online reservation agent for gay-only, gay-friendly, and clothing optional accommodation, hotels, villas, massage, spas and tours in Bali.
• Bali Gay Travel Info
  Jln Raya Kuta 129, Denpasar, 812-365-5080, email. Bali for gay visitors, from gay bars to drivers, to the best shops and spas.
• Dive the Rainbow
  081-7974-7268, email. Introducing the beautiful underwater world of Bali to gays and lesbians in a relaxed and easy community atmosphere. They offer the whole range of PADI dive courses as well as dive trips and dive safaris to any spot in Bali.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "I just want to recommend Dive the Rainbow for all the GLBT and friends who may be visiting Bali. My partner and I went to Bali on New Year's and had a fantastic time and the diving was awesome!" -- cameron, Jan 4, 2006

• Komodo Sailing
  Jln Arjuna, Gg. Villa Coco No.3, 819-3307-9922, email. Komodo Sailing operates sailing and diving cruises in Komodo National Park, home of the famous Komodo Dragons. This is also one of the top Diving destinations in the world and a place of extreme natural beauty. Certified PADI Dive Instructor and U.S. Coast Guard licensed Captain operate gay and lesbian-friendly trips from a minimum of 4 days. They accommodate groups of up to 8 people, joiner basis or full charter. Fly to Labuan Bajo in Flores for transfer to the boat.
• Unseen Bali
  Jln Umaalas -Klecung No.10 Kerobokan, Kuta, 736-569, email. Unseen Bali is a gay-owned travel agency where you may find find Bali information, including gay-friendly hotels, villas, accommodation, diving, trekking, tours, gay spas and massage. They make it easy to find the right price for your ideal holiday. They survey hotels regularly to provide up-to-date comprehensive hotel rates and information for their exotic island. Special discounts for combined stays of 7 days or more. Utopia Member Discount

Click here for Bali accommodations.

• Full Moon Magic
  

Click here for Bali bars and clubs.

Click here for Bali cabaret.

Click here for Bali discos.

CENTRAL BALI: UBUD
• Symon Gallery
  email. Located just across the Champuan Bridge on the way up the hill out of Ubud. Symon carries on the tradition of Balinese painters of male nudes with his bold, colorful paintings and surreal sculptures and has gained an international following of avid collectors.

  
  

Click here for Bali massage for men.

SOUTH BALI: DENPASAR, KUTA BEACH, LEGIAN, JIMABARAN, NUSA DUA, SANUR, SEMINYAK
• Beach across from the Lucky Strike sign near the Double Six (evenings).
• Jembatan Sribu Kenti at Jln Satot Subroto. Park at Auto 2000 and go down to the bridge after 5pm to visit this local bathing spot.
• Jln Tukad Musi at night.
• Kuta Beach, 300m from Hard Rock Café and Hotel. Cruisy late afternoon til 11pm. Also facility at far end parking lot. Beware of hustlers.
• Lapangan Puputan Park
  Denpasar (opposite the Museum of Bali). Best after 8pm, but cruisy all day long. Beware of hustlers.
• Ramayana Bali Mall
  103 Jln Diponegoro, Denpasar. Somewhat cruisy, especially 2/F.
• Renon at Puputan Square is a huge park for sports lovers, next to the cathedral. Go after 4pm. Many gays jog here. Beware of hustlers.
• Rumah Hanyu (Haunted House)
  Jln Gatot Subroto Barat at Jln Gn. Catur VI. Cruising in an unfinished housing estate, bewteen 10am-5pm (no lights in the evening). Unless you take Agent Mulder along, use your common sense.
• Taman Ganesha Beach
  Go to La Lucciola Restaurant and, facing the sea, walk to the right about 5 minutes. You will see a few huts on your right offering cold drinks, massage and lounge chairs with umbrellas. A little bit further down the beach you will find sunbathers (sometimes nude) and a few paths into the bushes ­ can be very cruisy in the afternoons.

  
  

SOUTH BALI: DENPASAR, KUTA BEACH, LEGIAN, JIMABARAN, NUSA DUA, SANUR, SEMINYAK

• Antique Bar and Restaurant (pan-Asian cuisine)
  Abimanyu Street (2 doors down from Q Bar), Seminyak-Kuta, 730-907, email. Owner, Joshua, holds court in this trendy eatery perfectly located in the midst of the gay scene. The artistic interior is full of original art and funky design. A nice place to dine before or after clubbing. Joshua has also opened a spa (see under massage) and gallery to showcase contemporary work by Balinese artists. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Looks like a café but food is great for a first timer to Balinese food. Tried the nasi jinggo. Imagine having all kinds of tastes swimming in your mouth and teasing your palate. Fantastic!" -- AsianSense, Feb 9, 2006

• Bali-Bali Beach Shack Restaurant & Bar
  Jln Sahadewa (just down the road from Hulu Café).

  Comments from Utopians:

  "A new gay-friendly, gay-owned restaurant has just opened. Very friendly and good looking male staff! Mixture of Balinese, Javanese and Timorese." -- Princess, Jan 31, 2008

• Bumbu Bali (seafood)
  Jl. Pratama, Matahari Terbit Bali, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, reservations: 774-502. Chef Heinz von Holzen is famous for his utterly superb Indonesian-inspired cuisine as well as his attempts to rescue endangered turtle eggs from the local markets. You can dine on some of the best food in Bali and also observe newborn turtles which hatch from sand incubators placed around the open-air dining pavilions. Chef Heintz also offers a fantastic half-day cooking class!
• Café Local (Belgian and world cuisine)
  Poppies 2, Jln Benesari (next to Suka Beach Inn), 860-3274, email. Owned and managed by a Balinese/Belgian gay couple. They offer Belgian specialities like vlaamse stoofkarbonade (Flemish beef stew), Italian pasta, woodfired pizza and a selection of Asian favourites. Serving nicely dressed plates and lovely food in a beautiful setting need not always be expensive as Café Local proves. Warm interior colors, 70s wallpaper and modern furniture are the decor here. Say hello to Gert and Pande on your next trip to Bali! Utopia Member Discount
• Gado Gado Restaurant and Café (international)
  99 Jln Dhyana Pura, Seminyak, 736-966, email. Gay-friendly Gado Gado has earned its reputation as one of Bali's top restaurants through its fine food, romantic seaside views and attentive service. They offer a diverse menu that incorporates seasonal fresh produce. Selection of international wines, champagne, and cigars from their humidor are also on hand. A multi-functional space, it can also be arranged to accommodate large groups up to 800, events, birthdays, etc. Private, aircon dining room with bar is also available for up to 14 people. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
• La Luciola
  Jln Kayu Aya Beach, Oberoi, reservations: 261-047, 730-838. Open air restaurant, bar, and beachside oasis at the end of Jln Dhyana Pura. Located just past The Legian Hotel, access is from the beach or via the parking lot in front of the large Pettitenget Temple. Owned and operated by a gay couple from Sydney. This is the place to hang-out, with fabulous international cuisine and great breakfasts. Sun bathe in their lounge chairs and enjoy the passing parade on the beach (facing the ocean, the gay beach is just a hundred meters to the right from here), or sit in the shade of their two-story, thatched restaurant and enjoy a meal. Friendly, gorgeous sarong-clad staff and reasonable prices. Drop by and say hi to general manager, Denise.
• Le Tebu (French and breakfast/lunch classics)
  Jln Petitenget 40X, 733-045, email. Gay-managed, friendly restaurant with good food at a reasonable price. Open for breakfast and lunch with various choices of food, from classics like Eggs Bennedict to delicious shrimp croquettes. By dinner time they change to French cuisine with all well known French dishes such as coq au vin, boullibaise and many more. Utopia Member Discount
• Meng’s Lifestyle Village
  Paul’s Place, Jln Laksamana 4A (50 meters from Oberoi Hotel), Oberoi, 736-715. Two gay-owned and operated restaurants here. One features a Thai kitchen and pan-Asian cuisine, and the other, Shanghai Breeze, serves up Chinese food. Utopia Member Discount
• Pili-Pili Warung (Indonesian and European)
  Jln Mertanadi 63, Seminyak, email. Gay-owned warung offering a relaxing, friendly environment with tasty food.
• Waroeng Bonita
  Jln Petitenget 2000X, Seminyak, 731-918, email. Gay-owned and operated garden restaurant, located on a quiet corner of the beach road. Loyal following among local residents and visitors from all over the world. Have a romantic dinner in a candlelit grove of fragrant frangipani trees, or try their Indonesian buffet lunch and heap your plate with tasty local treats. Open early for a hearty breakfast, and till late for a nightcap or latté. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Went several times to Warung Bonita for a nice romantic dinner. Beautiful bar and garden. The food and service were very good, as usual. It's a must place to visit!" -- peterbxl1, Oct 10, 2006

  Comments from Utopians:

  "The best restaurant/grill: Lestari, Umalas/Kerobokan." -- Kurt, Mar 30, 2008

  "Stop by Callego Restaurant in Seminyak. It's a nice place to hang out and have a cold drink and a bite to eat right on the beach. Lots of guys of all sorts to watch, but be careful of moneyboys -- they'll break your heart." -- flex11, Jan 14, 2007

  CENTRAL BALI: UBUD

• Café des Artistes
  Jalan Bisma, 9 X, Ubud, 972-706, email. A nicely decorated, gay-owned restaurant, with excellent food, full bar and winelist. Enjoy your meal on a streetside terrace or in a lounge with soft cushions. Reasonably priced. Utopia Member Discount
• Gajah Biru (Indian and vegetarian)
  Jl Raya Penestanan, 979-085, FAX 973-128, email. Manager, Amier, hosts at this beautifully appointed open-air restaurant which flies the rainbow colors. Ask him all about the local scene or join his circle of friends in the evenings in one of the dining pavilions in this beautiful garden setting. They accept Visa and Mastercard. Free transfers in Ubud area.

  NORTH BALI: LOVINA

• Kwizien
  Jln Raya Kaliasem, 300m after Central Lovina, email. The owners of Cafe des Artistes in Ubud have opened this G&L-friendly bistro and bar on the north shore of the island. All-day dining with a full bar and cocktail list, an extensive wine-list and a cozy atmosphere. Utopia Member Discount

SOUTH BALI: DENPASAR, KUTA BEACH, LEGIAN, JIMABARAN, NUSA DUA, SANUR, SEMINYAK

• Hanafi
  Poppies Lane One No. 77, 756-454, 0818-568-364. This small gift shop is proudly decorated with rainbow colors and pink triangles thanks to its irrepressible owner, Hanafi, who is full of useful info on the local scene.
• Paul’s Place
  Jln Laksamana 4A (50 meters from Oberoi Hotel), Oberoi, 736-715. Gay owned and operated boutique selling a variety of clothing designed by Paul and made in Bali, along with furniture, home wares and artifacts. Utopia Member Discount
• Pesamuan
  Jl Pungutan 25, Sanur, 281-440, 286-042. The design studio of two gay artists who, among other wonderful decorative items, make fabulous goldleafed condom finials as part of their contemporary "Homozone" collection.

  CENTRAL BALI: UBUD

• Joy (hair and beauty salon)
  14/3 Jln Raya Seminyak (opposite the Kura-Kura restaurant). Johann, fomerly of Depe salon, has set up shop in a little court set back from the street next to a gallery. Downstairs they have all the usual salon-hair stuff. Upstairs there are two massage areas.